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South Face, " Via Mazzorana-Del Torso" T 
Southwest Arete, "Valleferro Route" T 

Southwest Arete, "Valleferro Route" 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 650', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: D. Valleferro, et. al. 1978
Season: Summer and Fall, whenever Rifugio is open.
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Feb 11, 2017

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The route starts at the actual toe of the buttress, and follows an elegant line almost directly upward to the summit. The first pitch is the most difficult, just below some yellow overhangs. Othewise the route stays at the 5.5-5.6 level for the bulk of the climb. rappel to the North from a series of fixed ring anchors. The first abseil is 30 meters, so a 60 or 70 meter rope is advised.


Easily reached from Rifugio Fonda Savio. See Directions for South Face. This route is the arete to the far left.


Most stances are equipped with bolts for belay. Bring a normal Alpine Rack.

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By Rodger Raubach
Feb 11, 2017

This is loosely based on the German description: Klettern in Cortina d'Ampezzo und Umgebung; Dolomiten, die Schoensten Routen. Author: Mauro Bernardi.

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