South Park is certainly a unique crag. You'll find it on the same road as Heise Rock. This concludes the list of similarities.
South Park offers no single-digit routes, and most lines go easier than 12c. Most of the wall overhangs about 6 feet in 90. The stone is broken and sometimes loose, and by all indications will continue to be so until the rapture. This place cannot be treated like a gym. Holds break unexpectedly. Pay attention and communicate with your belayer.
The real essence of South Park climbing is the overwhelming prevalence of open-handed pinches. Climbing here tends to be pumpy more than technical. Think fitness over bouldery cruxes.
Watch out for snakes and falling rock. Do not belay directly under the climber. Do not flake your rope directly under the climber unless you like core shots. Bring your stick clip and have a great time.
For more info visit seiclimbing.com
The area guidebook is Sweet Spots, by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio. Southpark is not included in the current edition but you should buy it anyways. Seriously.
Follow directions to Heise Rock. Continue east past Heise a little less than a mile until you reach a dirt road on the right. Follow this road about 4 miles.
You'll see a large sign saying "Wolf Flats". The wall is .8 miles past this sign.
Please don't park in the little turnout directly across from the wall. Park in the large pullout on the left about 100 yards past.
Weather station 15.2 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Park
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Park:
Featured Route For South Park
By Derrick Hales
Jun 9, 2013
Please read this note by Dean Lords, the area developer and one who has worked hard at getting access to these great crags.
Please do not park on the road below Pointless or across from South Park. The BLM is heavily monitoring our usage at these crags as they plan to impliment a management policy for rock climbing in the South Fork Corridor.
The BLM folks do not want us parking on the road or creating new parking places by cutting down or diving over living things. Please, please, please understand that negative actions in the BLM's eyes WILL result in area closures.
The new fee at Heise will increase the user traffic at other neaby areas. Do your part to not create concerns for those land management agencies who are paying attention to what happens at the local crags.