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Deep water soloing- Lake Powell?
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Aug 27, 2009
I've heard that the highwater mark is well above current water levels on most of the lake. So lot's of rotten rock down low.

But I've also heard rumors of wingate all the way to the water in some places.....so anybody have any info?

Thanks!

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Administrator
Aug 27, 2009
Not sure about deep water soloing, but with the lake levels being higher than they have been in years you can motor further up towards Cataract now. There is a large buttress that looks like mini-Zion on river left in Narrow Canyon just below Mille Crag Bend.

Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,430 points
Aug 27, 2009
Hey Josh, funny you ask. I just got back from Lake Powell last night and got a little deep water soloing in. Pretty fun stuff. But, it seems that most rock that spent any time underwater has deteriorated quite a bit. Kind of dry and crumbly. Fortunately, one doesn't have to worry about gear pulling. Nevertheless, we found some fun stuff to solo right out of the boat near and in Escalante Canyon. We found a few good lines on the west side of the main channel just a mile or so north of Escalante. Also, a few lines on the south side of Escalante between the entrance to Escalante and the entrance to (ironically) Indian Creek Canyon. A few more lines on the south side of Escalante between the entrance to Indian Creek Canyon and Clear Creek Canyon. These line are only minutes apart by speed boat.

Although the rock was a bit dirty and sandy, we had a blast. First time doing anything like this for me.

What part of the lake will you be on? What kind of boat will you be on? I can be more specific. I will have some photos soon, too. That will help to locate the ones we did. Greg
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Aug 27, 2009
More details. The elevation of the wingate layer varies quite a bit. It appears, disappears and reappears several times as you travel up and down the lake. Sometimes it is well below water line, sometimes it is several hundred feet above water line and accessible by short and long approaches. If you are planning on bringing some gear and are willing to do some short approaches I "discovered" some good looking lines in Knowles Canyon. There is some vague info here: mountainproject.com/v/utah/lak... . This line looked really good. Perfect splitter in good rock. It has a new one bolt anchor on it. The direction given are quite vague and it would be quite hard to find it using just those direction. I can give you more specifics. There are at least 4 other great looking lines in this area. Next time I go I will definitely bring gear. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Aug 27, 2009
Although I'm morally opposed to "Resevoir" Powell, I have been hoping the water level would get back up to cover up the shit rock. Last time I was there...summer '07, it was about 90' below full, which meant there was 60' or so of the stained white rock showing. The DWS would be out of this world if it filled back up, but overhanging rock is harder to find, so you need to figure out what it's like to fall down a slab into the water.

As for rock types, Michael Kelsey's guide to boating Lake Powell is excellent, and it shows a cross-section of all the rock types at every point in the canyon. It would really help you narrow down your searches for rock and has tons of cool hikes in it. Anyone who goes to LP, climber or not, should get that book.
Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
2,670 points
Aug 28, 2009
Thanks for the replies guys.

I'll be on an 80' house boat and we'll also have at least 1 speed boat and some Kayak's. So I'll be pretty mobile....will that get me to your spots greg? We're leaving from Bullfrog.
I'm bring very limited gear....mostly because the folks I'm going with want to set up a rope swing. Obviously That means an old rope and booty gear...so any climbing I do will be DWS.

Anybody have any more info?

Again thanks for the replies!

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Aug 28, 2009
Josh, sounds like you will have all the mobility you will need. It just depends where the house boat goes as to how far you will have to travel to find some DWS. We found lines in the main channel @ approx mile marker 71, maybe a bit south and early on in Escalante Canyon as mentioned above. Also, take a look south of mm 77. There is a stretch where wingate meets the water on both sides of the lake. We saw several possibilities, but didn't stop. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Aug 28, 2009
Awesome thanks greg!

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Sep 6, 2009
Back from an epic week on lake Powell.

Got some killer DWS in...I'll post some photos soon.

The potential is endless.

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Sep 14, 2009
J. Thompson wrote:
...I'll post some photos soon.


We're still waiting....
Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
2,670 points
Nov 17, 2009
Finally got these photos off of a friend's camera. Josh, you got any? Anybody else?

Rock Climbing Photo: Lake Powell
Lake Powell


Rock Climbing Photo: Lake Powell
Lake Powell



Rock Climbing Photo: Preparing for the enama!
Preparing for the enama!


Rock Climbing Photo: Lake Powell
Lake Powell


Rock Climbing Photo: Lake Powell
Lake Powell


Rock Climbing Photo: Higher and higher, baby, dune dune!
Higher and higher, baby, dune dune!


Rock Climbing Photo: This is gonna hurt!
This is gonna hurt!


Rock Climbing Photo: Lake Powell
Lake Powell
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 17, 2009
Looks like the water was pretty high for you. How was it falling in the water near the rock? Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
2,670 points
Nov 17, 2009
Falling near the rock was not a problem. A bit scary, but you could see about 12 feet deep. Probably adequate for the height that we were jumping from. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 17, 2009
A park ranger did cruise by us while Jenny was climbing. She was well above the new "15 foot cliff jump" regulation. Either we were not violating the reg since there was no cliff, just a crack or her "non tan" (edited to save my relationship) camouflaged her against the white rock. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 17, 2009
wow looks awesome!

more hottie crack climbing girl photos please! you lucky bastard!
thegreenalien
Joined Jul 26, 2008
0 points
Nov 17, 2009
Dammit! I've been wanting to check out Powell for a couple years now for DWS. I used to boat on the lake growing up before I was a climber and remember rock all over the place. I never thought about the rock at the bottom being shit from the water receding though. Red
From Tacoma, Toyota
Joined Sep 11, 2008
1,348 points
Nov 17, 2009
Greg D - just a hint. Girls would rather be referred to as "hottie crack climbing girl" than "white as a ghost". Figure it out or you won't be the "lucky bastard"! WhiteAsAGhost
Joined Nov 17, 2009
0 points
Nov 17, 2009
Greg...I do have some photos I'll try and post them in the next couple of days.

I found everything from sick overhanging face to cracks similar to the ones you have posted.

It was nice to have a depth finder on the boat....most of the stuff I was soloing above was at least 50 ft deep. Some of it was several hundred!
DWS...steep and deep!

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Nov 19, 2009
Here some photos from my trip....


Rock Climbing Photo: Steep n' deep.
Steep n' deep.



Rock Climbing Photo: Starting from A Kayak
Starting from A Kayak



Rock Climbing Photo: Huecos!
Huecos!



I did quit a few "boat starts"...which allowed me to get above the high water mark. But required a good starting point, a spotter, and a good boat driver!


Rock Climbing Photo: Boat start....thanks Scott!
Boat start....thanks Scott!


I found a ton of great stuff that had alot of the good DWS requirements....Steep climbing, Deep water, and an obvious ending point.
There was some great stuff that ended at the 30ft mark...either at an obvious ledge or when the crack/features obviously stopped. tons more to do, I can't wait to get back!

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Administrator
Nov 19, 2009
WhiteAsAGhost wrote:
Greg D - just a hint. Girls would rather be referred to as "hottie crack climbing girl" than "white as a ghost". Figure it out or you won't be the "lucky bastard"!


Greg ... busted!
John McNamee
From Littleton, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2002
845 points
Nov 20, 2009
John McNamee wrote:
Greg ... busted!


Yep. Still paying for that one!
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 20, 2009
Josh, look familiar?



Rock Climbing Photo: DWS
DWS
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Nov 20, 2009
Greg...Nice!
That wall was just to cool looking not to climb!

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Dec 29, 2009
looks like fun coop Best
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
430 points
May 27, 2011
Im curious about the whole "shoes" thing with DWS how many pairs did you bring? and could you still climb once they were wet? and what would be your best recamendation for DWS shoes?
thanks!!
Tyler Krenzelok
From Ft. Collins Co/ San Ramon Ca
Joined Jun 14, 2010
5 points
May 27, 2011
Do you use chalkbags? Ty Harlacker
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Mar 2, 2008
155 points


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