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South Early Winters Spire
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Boving Roofs T 
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Southern Man 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Allen, Falley, and Kauffman 2008
Page Views: 983
Submitted By: wayne wallace on Jul 3, 2015

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Leading up pitch 4 to the alcove belay.


This interesting route shares the first 4-5 pitches of Direct East Butt of SEWS. It busts out left of the bolt ladder pitch and starts off funky 10a. The quality gets better when it kicks into the headwall pitches. Sustained thin cracks start out in a corner then stays sustained for a couple of pitches, and the belays are vague and not yet fixed. Stephs great report

Photos of Southern Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Camera tilt on Southern Man with Steph
Camera tilt on Southern Man with Steph
Rock Climbing Photo: Jean nearing the top of the 5.11+ pitch
Jean nearing the top of the 5.11+ pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Southern Man
Southern Man

Comments on Southern Man Add Comment
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By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jul 25, 2015

Southern Man takes a bold line up one of the steeper cliffs on SEWS. The cruxes are of the thin crack/corner variety and the rock is sharp if not jagged. It has solid rock and good pro. The belays are not obvious or fixed so bring cordelettes etc. How about that South Early for delivering so many quality climbs!! Did a write up on my amateur website
By Chris Mutzel
From: Seattle, Washington
Aug 12, 2016

Just as Wayne: cool there are so many great routes here. I found the crux as hard as or a little harder than any single move on the Passenger. Did them back to back days so that not sure if that helped or hurt the ability to be objective.

Wrote a few thoughts here:

Be prepared to use your whole rack on the pitch 11+ pitch (rating in Cascade Rock). I felt it was was super sustained, except for where it backs off just after the crux. A super strong duo could blast up to this pitch very quickly to give it a burn.

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