REI Community
Washington Column
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astroman T 
Direct Route  T 
Electric Ladyland  
Jo Jo  T 
Mideast Crisis T 
Power Failure T 
Prow, The T 
Re-Animator, The 
Skull Queen T 
South Face T 
Southern Man T 
Ten Days After T 

Southern Man 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A1-2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A1-2 [details]
FA: Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat 1992
Season: year round
Page Views: 2,479
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Southern Man

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This route heads left from Dinner Ledge. It's a bolt line that starts on a little pedestal with one bat hook move and a few funky hooks up higher. That's the 4th pitch (which we made a long one). The next pitch is funky. You head up and get on the S. Face route for about 14' then you swing left to a seam, then up and left again. I know that this has been done C2-3 (maybe free?), but back when we did it we used pins. One fixed head on this pitch. Above you follow cracks and corners up parallel to the S. Face route to the rim. Pitch 7 has another swing on it I killed my self with rope drag, so use long runners. pitch 8 has one hard section, then it's not so bad to the rim for 2 more pitches. It took me 2 tries to get up this route, great climbing.

If you're a fast team and want to pass other teams off Dinner Ledge, the first 2 pitches of Southern Man will get you to the top of the 6th pitch on the S. Face route.


Head up the first 3 pitches of S. Face, then go left. Can't miss the start. Getting down: Walk the death slabs.


Aid rack. We used thin pins but with all the new toys you can do it clean. I recall trad belays with 2 bolted, but could be wrong about that. Some fixed heads.

Comments on Southern Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 1, 2007

Once on Southern Man proper, the belays are indeed all natural with the exception of 4 and 7. Pitch 8 has one bolt to supplement the gear.

Pitch 4 and 5 can be linked with a 60 meter rope if belaying from from the pedestal above Dinner Ledge. From a little above pitch 9, there is a rappel from a tree that can be used to get onto the South Face route if retreat is necessary or you just don't want to go to the top. There are a few crucial fixed heads. A hammer, some heads and a few thin pins are recommended.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Mar 16, 2008

I remember there being some surprisingly tricky spots for the grade, and the natural anchors add an interesting element.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Feb 20, 2009

Grade II? Now that's optimistic!
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
May 3, 2010

I felt the trickiest part was the pendulum off the South Face route. It was just a little tricky to get established back on the line after the pendulum.

This route is well worth the effort! Some great opportunities to work off of your top step on this line.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About