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Turkey Rock
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That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 
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Southern Comfort 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,611
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 4, 2002

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At the top of the crack on the second pitch and ab...

Description 

This great route is located on the south face of Turkey Rock. It offers a wide range of climbing from finger cracks to chickenhead covered slabs. Every pitch is good quality and unique.

From the draw between Turkey Perch and Turkey Rock, walk along the base of Turkey Rock past Turkey Shoot (5.9-) and up the hill past Gobbler's Grunt towards the South shoulder of the formation. Rope up on a ledge below a splitter 5.9 finger crack on the left and a wide 5.7 corner crack on the right. The finger crack is obvious.

Pitch 1: do a quick boulder move up to the next ledge and follow a sustained and steep finger crack up through the face via locks and jams past a small overlap to another small ledge. Continue up 10 more feet of easier climbing to a fixed anchor at a slung chockstone, 75 feet, 5.9 splitter. Variation: climb corner on the right to just below the roof on pitch two, 5.7.

Pitch 2: move right 15 feet on face holds towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a fun 5.8 hand crack in the corner. Follow this crack up and right until it peters out. Begin to face climb and traverse up and right on good holds (5.7) until your reach a left-facing, corner system and belay at a comfortable stance above. This pitch requires good use of runners, it can be broken into two if needed. The face climbing is a tad bit run-out but on positive holds, 170 feet, 5.8, varied and enjoyable. Variation: 5.9S or 10bVS.

Pitch 3: face climb straight up on big holds slinging chickenheads for pro to a small bulge with a crack in it. Cross the bulge and continue up easy slabs to the summit belay, 75 feet, 5.7, short and sweet.

Descent: walk off climber's right.

Bryson Slothower

Protection 

Gear up to 3" extra finger and hand size, a few long runners and a 60 meter rope.


Photos of Southern Comfort Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The airy unprotected traverse on P2. I am at the s...
BETA PHOTO: The airy unprotected traverse on P2. I am at the s...
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch. Climbing the crack after travers...
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch. Climbing the crack after travers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the last pitch.
Starting the last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway across the traverse on pitch two.
Midway across the traverse on pitch two.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first belay.
The first belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the first pitch crack.
Finishing the first pitch crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper pitches of Southern Comfort.
BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches of Southern Comfort.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Southern Comfort is the nice finger...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Southern Comfort is the nice finger...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on P2 of Southern Comfort in between M...
Topping out on P2 of Southern Comfort in between M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the first pitch of splitter fingers - nic...
Starting the first pitch of splitter fingers - nic...

Comments on Southern Comfort Add Comment
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By shad O'Neel
Aug 6, 2003

What a fine climb. Reminicent of [Cochise Stronghold] for sure. [The] second pitch has some airy moves on the two traverses. Three stars for sure, and not an easy 5.9.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 26, 2004

First pitch finger crack was very hard for us, but isn't a hairy lead since nuts fit in everywhere. You can set up a toprope and work on your technique, the rope won't get in the way since the anchor is off to the side. Both my partner and I struggled with the feet and with finding good locks for the first thirty feet or so. Great place to practice.

As for the rest of the climb, it's great as well. The pro is there, except for the traverses which are brief. More fun on lead, I think, but when is that not true?
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 23, 2009

The last pitch is the same as for Gobbler's Grunt, accept you bypass the belay for the start. The 5.8 hand crack at the start of pitch two widens up to chicken wing size right after you get in it, incidentally. The traverse after that is pretty wild!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 6, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first pitch crack is described as a "finger crack", but it is hand sized in several spots. It will take several #2 Camalots and a #3 near the top. The pitch two traverse is easier than it looks, but I only found one decent piece of gear about 1/3 of the way across it.
By Moritz B.
Apr 14, 2014

Here is some extra beta for the second pitch:
There were no fixed slings when we did this climb. Instead, build your own anchor on a little ledge. We slung a boulder and protected it from upward force by having it pulled down with a #2. From here, you start the airy traverse underneath the roof. Halfway through you get to place a #3. When you reach the 5.8 crack, you get another piece in. Head up this handcrack, and when it vanishes, head up and right and join the second pitch of Gobler´s Grunt. Have fun, it´s awesome!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

P1 is a little slick, both for hands and feet. It felt like 5.9+ as a warm-up.
This route can easily be done in 2 pitches and probably as one pitch with not much difficulty. Clip a 3' sling on the first 'belay', and continue through the traverse up and right to the right under the giant flake below then up into the corner. You can belay there to stop and the break back left to finish on 5.9 as 'Northern Comfort' (5.9-) or just put in another long sling and continue up and right to finish, belaying when you merge with Gobblers Grunt... or continuing to the very top if you have enough rope (80m?).
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A variation called 'Northern Comfort' is a fun way to keep this route in the 5.9 range a little longer.

P1. Climb P1 up into the corner to the right of the overhanging flake and belay off of hand-sized gear (120').

P2. Break left onto semi-positive face holds (5.8-), and climb up with occasional nuts or Aliens up and right, then go up a handrcrack with good gear up and left to the summit (70') (FA: Croft, Hall Cheyney, Sept. 1975).

With good sling management, this would have likely gone well as a single pitch with a 70m rope. A 60m rope would reach the top but not back to were you need to get to set an anchor, and the bottom is not good simul-climbing material.