|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 195'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||jeep gaskin on Apr 11, 2016|
|Comments on Southender||Add Comment|
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By Tim Fry
From: Charlotte NC
Apr 27, 2016
The climbing is enjoyable enough and it was fun enough to do it as one mega-pitch. But beware: if 5.8 is your comfortable limit, the downlead Jeep describes may leave you a bit over your head, both in technical proficiency and from a difficulty perspective. Make sure you go in with a sense of adventure and protect it adequately for your followers!
If you want to do this route and are not comfortable with the descent shenanigans, my suggestion would be to bring some webbing and make one 30' rap from the trees above your over the left side of the dihedral. (To find the belay, you must climb over the dihedral when you're about 30' below the nasty looking tree ledge.) Then you will hit the anchors Jeep describes directly.
Oh, and I did this with a 70m and was getting shouts from below about running out of rope. I hit the belay with 10'(?) to spare, Jeep knows this area much better than I, but I really don't know if a 60m would have made it.
By Mike Reardon
Apr 28, 2016
A 60 meter full rope length runs about 10 feet shy of the tree island if doing the mega pitch. You have to set a gear belay in the dihedral, then do a sloppy mini second pitch.
Alternatively, if dry, climb on the black streak above and right of the tree island and continue for three more long pitches, then rap the same as The Enigma. Mostly easy climbing with a few 5.8 moves.