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YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 195'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McEver
Season: fall-spring
Page Views: 509
Submitted By: jeep gaskin on Apr 11, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: P1 Southender


The hardest moves are low on the route, within the first 25 feet. Protection is excellent. Prepare for an enjoyable romp. Negotiating the perpetual wet streak higher up is usually easy but adds some adventure. Rope stretching a 60 meter cord will put you on a ledge to the left with inches to spare, gear belay. On busy South Side days this route is nearly always available.


Southender is at the left hand end of the South Side. Pass beneath Rat's Ass and keep going till you come to the end of the wall. The shallow corner above is Southender. Like the water streak, getting down is something of an adventure. The Ruby Tuesday/Irish Jig rap rings are 30 feet below the Southender ledge, but you can't see them because there is an overhang in the way. To get there you must down lead the obvious water groove on the right if you are facing out. It is easy and there is abundant gear. Keep in mind the down leader is placing gear to protect the second. Circle back under the Southender ledge and the rap anchors are head high. Double ropes to the ground.


standard Glass rack.

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By Tim Fry
From: Charlotte NC
Apr 27, 2016

The climbing is enjoyable enough and it was fun enough to do it as one mega-pitch. But beware: if 5.8 is your comfortable limit, the downlead Jeep describes may leave you a bit over your head, both in technical proficiency and from a difficulty perspective. Make sure you go in with a sense of adventure and protect it adequately for your followers!

If you want to do this route and are not comfortable with the descent shenanigans, my suggestion would be to bring some webbing and make one 30' rap from the trees above your over the left side of the dihedral. (To find the belay, you must climb over the dihedral when you're about 30' below the nasty looking tree ledge.) Then you will hit the anchors Jeep describes directly.

Oh, and I did this with a 70m and was getting shouts from below about running out of rope. I hit the belay with 10'(?) to spare, Jeep knows this area much better than I, but I really don't know if a 60m would have made it.
By Mike Reardon
Apr 28, 2016

A 60 meter full rope length runs about 10 feet shy of the tree island if doing the mega pitch. You have to set a gear belay in the dihedral, then do a sloppy mini second pitch.
Alternatively, if dry, climb on the black streak above and right of the tree island and continue for three more long pitches, then rap the same as The Enigma. Mostly easy climbing with a few 5.8 moves.

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