REI Community
South/East side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Robot City S 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 

South/East side Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,400'
Location: 35.82733, -106.17868 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,185
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: The South/East side of The Overlook. (I couldn't f...


Sunny and warm in the morning through early afternoon. Many great bolted face routes and enjoyable gear-protected crack routes to bolted anchors. Climbing here on winter mornings is very pleasant.

Top ropes can be set up from the top on almost all the routes on this wall.

The climbs are numbered from left to right, in the order you'll pass them on the approach, and coincide with the Beta Photo.

Getting There 

Follow directions for the main area, The Overlook.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.6 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South/East side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South/East side:
Squeeze Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 55'   
Headwall Crack Left   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 55'   
Polly's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 60'   
Box Overhang Left   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 55'   
Cholla Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 50'   
M.C. Epic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   
Headwall Crack Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 50'   
Holy Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 55'   
Cholla Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 55'   
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 55'   
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 60'   
Boy What Nice Fellows   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 55'   
Bosker Boozeroo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Paul's Boutique   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 55'   
Nice Guys Finish Last   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 63'   
Len's Roof   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 55'   
Way Beyond Zebra   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 65'   
Double Vision / Ream Dream   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   
Thorazine Dream   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   
Face Off   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South/East side

Featured Route For South/East side
Rock Climbing Photo: Eyeballing the top-out holds while moving through ...

Cholla Wall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13  New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South/East side
One of the finer routes at The Overlook. A nicely pocketed, sustained face route. It is a very popular top-rope and a proud gear lead because of the tricky gear placements in pockets. By longtime, documented agreement by local climbers do not bolt this face route. The route gets its name from a Cholla cactus that used to be at the base of the route that pricked many climbers tha...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of South/East side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A large tarantula that nearly fell on my wife's he...
A large tarantula that nearly fell on my wife's he...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overlook
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken Cohegan Overlook 1983
Ken Cohegan Overlook 1983

Comments on South/East side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 13, 2008
Thanks to the climber that donated "fixed" carabiners on Double Vision / Ream Dream, Way Beyond Zebra, and Face Off recently. Let's hope some naive climber doesn't see them and think he scored some bootie (like the last time this occurred on Way Beyond Zebra.)
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jan 11, 2009
Unfortunately it has happened again! Leaver biners gone from Face Off, Way Beyond Zebra, Thorazine Dream, Ream Dream, and possibly more. I found six carabiners at the base of Way Beyond Zebra, two of which I am positive are the ones I put on Thorazine Dream. The other four I believe are the pairs from Face Off and Way Beyond Zebra. I have no idea where the ones are for Ream Dream. Anyways I put mine back on Thorazine Dream and two back on Face Off. I couldn't reach the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra from the top, but next time I climb it I will put those final two back. Hopefully this will happen some time this week. I guess it is lucky that these people that are stealing the biners are sometimes forgetful and left some of their 'booty' at the bottom! Or else they left them (as litter) on purpose?!?

Edit: I put the carabiners back on Way Beyond Zebra today.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 11, 2009
Pretty damn weird, Daniel. I've been meaning to use bailing wire to put fix the biners to the chains. It won't stop the determined folks but at least it'll show the biners are supposed to be there and not "booty".
By Owen Darrow
From: Garmisch,
Feb 23, 2011
I like Jason's idea about putting wire around the biners to make sure people know they're suppose to be there but maybe a zip tie will work better because it wont scrape and wear down the metal on the biner like wire will.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 25, 2011
Hey Owen, I've applied both types and find the zip ties degrade and crack pretty quickly. The bailing wire doesn't negatively impact the chains or biners in any fashion and lasts longer. Thankfully, I believe folks have finally understood that the biners are "fixed" and they've stopped disappearing. It just took a little while for that mindset to set in. Also, spray painting the biners an ugly rust color helped in that the biners were far less appealing that way. And they are more cammoed so they blend in with the rock better--less visually annoying.
By Orlando
Feb 25, 2011
Try stainless steel zip ties, available at most hardware stores. They're kinda expensive (maybe a buck each?) but work well and should last the life of the carabiner. Cheers.
By Matt Balkey
Jan 9, 2012
I found some quickdraws on the anchors for Box Overhang Right this past Saturday. If these belong to you, let me know.
By Willy Apgar
Feb 19, 2016
two quick-draw style anchors found at the top of the cliff between Way Beyond Zebra and Face Off. Holler at me on my phone if you can describe them to me. 5054129605. Call or Text is fine.

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