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Southeast Crack T 
Southeast Roof T 

Southeast Roof 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Corey Todd, Michael DeNicola, Ken Roberts
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 9, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Southeast Roof above Southeast Crack - (sector 9 E...

Description 

The crux is rather interesting bouldering sequence, but the rest is much easier and less interesting.

This route could be thought of as a continuation of the southeast crack route (which could be linked in a single pitch), but the character and history of that route is very different.

Scramble up from the ledge into a left-facing corner underneath a 2-3-ft deep roof. Pull over the right edge of the roof (easier than the quoted grade if find the best technique on the first try).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

On the ledge at the top of the obvious continuous crack up the middle of the southeast face which is to the right of the giant corner in the left side of the Envers sector. Two-bolt anchor near the outside of this ledge.

Rather difficult to reach the bottom of this route without first climbing the route of the southeast crack.

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . and on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo

Protection 

Leading: standard Trad rack, especially medium small cam. Protection for crux is good but might require strength or precise technique to place.

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Descent by scrambling is very difficult and time-consuming, so recommend bringing your own equipment to leave behind to make a rappel.


Photos of Southeast Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: SouthEast Roof route above the southeast crack -- ...
SouthEast Roof route above the southeast crack -- ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Corey Todd leading through the SouthEast Roof
Corey Todd leading through the SouthEast Roof

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