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Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on May 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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  • Description 

    This is a 400+ foot easy scramble on great rock, it could be a nice initiation to soloing.

    Start just right of the low point of the rock, at the far left of the East face. The first two moves will be the hardest moves of the climb so feel free to blow it.

    Scramble up to the ridge and follow it to a notch.

    Traverse to the West and North behind the pinnacle and scramble up the ridge once more to the summit, moving to the East face for the final moves.

    Descent - scramble down the Northwest ridge to the base (class 4).


    Standard rack.

    Comments on Southeast Ridge Add Comment
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    By shad O'Neel
    Jul 23, 2002

    Went for a stroll last night with the doggies and ened up on this fun ridge as well as Front Porch. The last few moves on the east face are a delightful bundle of joy- as long as you have no rope, partner and have running shoes on anyway.
    By Julius Beres
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 25, 2010
    rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

    For people free soloing:
    "Descent - Scramble down the Northwest ridge to the base (class 4)."

    I would say the descent is harder than any move on the actual climb. My partner ended up leaving a sling to rap. We went down what I would describe more as the northwest gully rather than a ridge. Perhaps we didn't find the ridge, but I could see nothing that matched that description. The hand holds were all decent and there were good stems, but I would call it a 5.0 down climb, possibly harder, definitely not class 4.
    By Rick Blair
    From: Denver
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

    Julius, my partner and I saw that gully and were tempted, but it looked dirty though doable. If you stick with the ridge, it is indeed 4th class, a little higher angle than the gully but clean.

    This was an outstanding free solo. The position on the middle of the first face and the middle of the final face is dead vertical with huge huecos, runnels, and pockets with positive edges you can wrap your fingers around for every hold. How does this happen in nature? Amazing. To me, the crux is navigating off of the first pinnacle to the saddle if you go all the way up there.

    You could make any of this 5th class if you so choose, if you climb this roped, I didn't see much opportunity for pro. One word of caution, though the rock appeared solid it is that brighter red sandstone that shows up a lot in the Flatirons and Eldo that tends to be crumbly. I would definitely test all of the thinner holds before you commit.
    By Ryan Watts
    From: Bishop, CA
    Jun 16, 2013

    Pretty fun little scramble. The downclimb is definitely the crux. I saw a sling where someone had rapped off the back and tried downclimbing that way. It turned out to be a bit more sketchy that I thought, so I back tracked a bit and scrambled down the other side.
    By clarkbeau
    From: boulder
    Jul 7, 2014
    rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

    Short, but pretty fun when combined with Front Porch for a solo circuit. Easiest way to get down is to downclimb the route. Several gullies and ways to descend off the Northwest ridge/arete but lots of lichen and dirty rock.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Nov 12, 2016

    The NW ridge descent looks extremely unlikely but turns out just fine. It would be a good scramble up too, although shorter than the SE ridge, which is already fairly short.

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