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Disappointment Peak
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Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 2000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Perry Gilbert 8-12-1935
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Matt Schroer on Jul 21, 2015

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Kirk just below the summit of Disappointment Peak....

Description 

From Lupine Meadows, hike to Amphitheater Lake. Cross the stream that connects Amphitheater to Surprise Lake, and head up the steep grassy hill to the base of a cliff on the saddle above. While following the climbers trail, you will notice an obvious gully with 2 large chockstones. Pass through a tunnel to bypass the first one (involves a mantle move, all of which is easier with your pack off), then follow climbers left around the second chockstone (some parties may desire a rope for either the ascent or descent of this part; 4th class). Above this gully, follow easy ground along a faint climbers trail to the summit ridge. Follow the path of least resistance along this ridge, first on the north of the ridge, then finishing on the southern aspect. This path will likely provide good excitement and exposure for the casual peak bagger. Stand on the lofty summit, look down the north aspect, and take in the view that is unlike any other in the Tetons.

Location 

Retrace the route to descend

Protection 

If anything, a light teton rack (nuts, hexes, tricams, select cams) and short rope (30m) will be sufficient


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By Andy Novak
From: Golden, Co
Jul 23, 2016

I took a slightly different route than described above which was mellow. At the base of the steeps on the far left side, work up and right on ledges until you reach the gully. This is only one or two moves of class 4. There is more or less a trail all the way to the top of this interesting peak, and the view from the summit is something else.

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