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Lost Flatironette
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Southeast Ridge T 

Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13 [details]
FA: unknown, possibly G. Roach
Season: faces East
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The central area of "Lost", just to the ...

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  • Description 

    The route is fairly mellow and uniform in difficulty but for a few locations. The start is slightly lichenous and dirty, being down in the trees and lacking light or wind to clean it up, but this presents little problem.

    More disconcerting, and perhaps what most people will recall about the route if anything stands out, would be the brief section of poor rock that lies perhaps 50' from the top. The light spot at a short overlap is shedding grains and has no real holds left but for what seemed a reasonable slanted edge to the right of the arete for a foothold. Once up on this, solid stone and cobbles to the right provide quick relief from any anxiety. A fall from there would likely be tragic if you are soloing the route, as the small sloping ledge below does not provide the sort of stance one can fall onto and remain.

    Location 

    This route climbs the rock from the low point at the base up to the SE ridge (climber's right) and to the summit. Were it not for a few feet of poor stone along the way, I would review the route as 2 stars. Perhaps normal traffic and cleaning will fix that problem.

    Protection 

    Since I have not roped up for this pitch, I remain uncertain. Take a light Flatirons rack, and be aware that much of the route will not be well protected.


    Photos of Southeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The SE Ridge seen from the south. Rather exposed, ...
    BETA PHOTO: The SE Ridge seen from the south. Rather exposed, ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Flatironette indeed! Hard to see, and hard to...
    BETA PHOTO: Lost Flatironette indeed! Hard to see, and hard to...

    Comments on Southeast Ridge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rick Blair
    From: Denver
    Oct 12, 2015
    rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13

    First half is 4th class and protectable with pro and chickenheads. 2nd half enters a section of soft, friable, dark red rock common in the Flatirons and Eldo. The top half has no pro but an abundance of welded pebbles for holds.
    No obvious belay anchor at top. I tied a loop in my rope and slung the top point running one side of the loop through a groove and the other around a welded pebble sticking out of the conglomerate to hold it in place. Tension must be kept on this anchor, but it is reasonable for what it is. Good foot bracing as well. Comfy summit to sit on, great views.
    Downclimb north ridge using the ridge as a nice hand rail. To protect the next climber, you have the first walk around to the back of the formation, and you can use the top to run the rope over for a nice toprope descent.
    ~150 feet, not 200.
    By Glen Charnoski
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 8, 2015
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13

    I started at the SE corner and traversed right, below the friable, thin rock halfway up the face, to stay on solid fun featured rock. I pulled up a shallow gully on the right-central area of the face and ended on the north rib to the summit. Seemed like a more enjoyable, longer, and safer solo that the South Ridge route.
    By Long Ranger
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Oct 20, 2016

    Started up the highest mound of pine needles I could find! to access very shallow, puzzle piece crack. Downclimb was def. a fun one. Pinch those pebbles!

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