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Mt Carillon
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Southeast Ridge indirect 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 21, 2016

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Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>


Scrambling up to a nice summit, with the option of more difficult interesting moves or exposure. Nice views out to both sides of the ridge.
Approach is rather long (though interesting and spectacular in itself), so think about combining this with other routes.

Starting at the major break in the ridge, head NW along the ridge toward the summit -- avoid difficult sections by moving down onto the SW face (climber's left).

descent: Scramble down a little somewhere on the S or SW side, soon reach talus and sand. Hike S on sand to meet approach route.

more: Can be "enchained" with other similar routes to make a longer sequence for a day's climbing. Most obvious is after reaching the summit of Mt Carillon, continue down the West ridge of Carillon to reach Russell-Carillon pass, then up the Mt Russell East ridge.

Permit required: This route (or at least its normal approach + descent) require a USFS wilderness permit for either single-day or overnight use. The permit can be requested in advance in January, or sometimes permits are available the day before by walking into the Mt Whitney Visitors Center just south of Lone Pine - (only available at this center, not at any other USFS centers along the Eastside Sierra).


The summit of Mt Carillon is at (lat long ~ N36.59242 W118.27794) - (altitude 13,552ft / 4132m).
The simplest place to start climbing on the ridge is at a major break in the SE ridge (lat long ~ N36.5908 W118.2757) - (altitude ~ 13280ft / 4050m)

From Whitney Portal trailhead, start by hiking up the Mt Whitney Trail (past the Carillon Creek turn-off) to the signed turn-off for North Fork Lone Pine Creek (N36.5869 W118.2453). Turn Right onto the (unofficial) North Fork trail and hike with some serious scrambling sections (full 3rd class), generally W up to Lower Boy Scout Lake. Continue up generally East toward Upper Boy Scout Lake, with some serious talus scrambling, then some slabs. But before reaching Upper B.S. Lake, near Clyde Meadow at about (N36.5815 W118.2678), turn Right off the trail and head up NW, perhaps at first a short ways through some bushes, then on sand. Gets steeper later, then on gentle sand toward Russell-Carillon pass. But much lower before reaching that Pass, somewhere around (N36.5896 W118.2774), bear Right NE on steeper sand, then into talus and scramble up steeper talus to the major break in the SE ridge.


No fixed anchors or other gear. Type or size of Trad protection which might be used is unknown. Anyway the difficulties are very short and mostly avoidable.

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