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Southeast Face T 
West Face of Mount Starr King T 

Southeast Face 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
FA: George Anderson, James Hutchings, and Jean Baptiste Lembert, 1877
Page Views: 2,006
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on May 28, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Amy and Maria saunter up to the start of the South...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Follow the path of least resistance - or whichever variation catches your eye - up two pitches, to where the summit can be approached by a class 3 scramble.


At the gap between the middle and north domes of Mount Starr King. The obvious path of least resistance is the Southeast Face.

May be rapped with one or two 60+ m ropes. Another belay station was out of order when I visited; your mileage may vary, so as always have some slings and leaver gear handy.


Standard rack. Not a lot of pro, but adequate and pretty typical of an alpine climb in the easy 5. range.

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By splitclimber
May 28, 2013

ahh. starr king! hope future entries are vague to keep the adventure alive out there.

Was able to rap this with 1 70m rope/3raps. temporarily got the rope stuck trying to pull from under the small roof. had to extend a couple alpine draws from sling anchor to harness to swing out right and get the rope to move.
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
May 28, 2013

Fine point, S., anyone who'll climb this will have the orienteering chops to find it.
By Worster than you
From: Lafayette, CA
Jun 29, 2013
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

Everyone sees a route differently, but I thought it went much closer to the 5.2 to 5.0 range. I also remember having placements where I wanted them so I didn't go with the PG13 rating. I'm not some stud climber, but just wanted others to know this route shouldn't cause too much intimidation. Starr King being what it is, Justin may have gone a totally different line from me that truly was 5.6 PG13!
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Jul 2, 2013

Hey W., thanks for the input. I actually saw this same kind of spread happening among online reviews of the route, and between my parties (which wandered off-line and thought it 5.6ish) and our friends' party behind us that went directly up, and thought it so easy that they weren't thinking about protection (class 4 or easy 5.).

Since this route is public domain, I'll update my description and rating soon to reflect the FA party's and historical majority's ratings based on the typical route, not base on my fringe experience of it.
By Worster than you
From: Lafayette, CA
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

BTW, I think the third FA guy was "Lembert"
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Sep 24, 2013

Thanks W. can't believe I missed that connection! I just saw pictures of Lembert out the Parsons Lodge in Tuolumne the other week.
By hikingdrew
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 1, 2014

We were able to do this comfortably with 2 raps of ~170' on two 60m ropes tied.

First rap anchor emerged out of blocks at the bottom of the 2/3 class scramble to the summit. Second rap anchor hidden behind triangle shaped block at the big belay ledge. Both look recent, blue 1" webbing on second rap marked 7/13.

The other intermediate rap anchors looked sketchy, one underneath the overhanging slab and the second at a small block down and to the right of the big belay ledge.
By hailman
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 6, 2017

Best part about this route for us was visiting the Yosemite backcountry. We backpacked it and didn't see anyone else the whole time ... in Yosemite ??

We bivy/camped at the saddle between the two lower bumps which made for a very fine evening. Bats were heard fluttering at dusk.

Just wish the climb was a little longer as the friction bits were quite exciting for a new leader. I was pleased to find some comforting gear placements here and there.

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