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Southeast Face 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,158
Submitted By: brenta on Aug 7, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Little Matterhorn and the Southeast Face route see...

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This route is summarily described in Gerry Roach's guide to RMNP. A buttress descends in the southeast direction from the summit of Little Matterhorn. (That is from the high point at the far end of the ridge.) The route climbs easy slabs to the left of a large overhang that cuts across the base of that buttress. The slabs are about two pitches. (We didn't rope up for this section.)

At the top of the slabs, move right to the base of the upper section of the buttress. From there, it's about 70m to the top. The climbing close to the crest of the ridge is around 5.5.


From Lake Helene, follow the trail to Grace Falls. Ascend the talus slope under Little Matterhorn trending right toward the slabs to the left (west) of a large overhang.


Standard rack.

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By Legs Magillicutty
From: Durango
Feb 29, 2012

Is this also called the Komito route? Named after Steve Komito?
By brenta
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2012

Maybe. My only source was Gerry Roach's book, which does not provide FA information. Google brings up a picture of yours, where you identify a line close to this one---but distinct in the upper half---as Komito Route. You seem to know more than I do on the subject.
By Anika Rmy
Sep 3, 2017

Climbed this route on Sept. 2nd as my first alpine multi-pitch climb. It had good, solid rock for the slab section before turning into slightly more technical climbing on a loose blocky face. Easy (5.5/5.6) climbing here, but lots of rope drag. Would recommend doing a few more, short pitches to avoid the rope drag. Don't underestimate the traverse back along the ridge and descent down the talus boulderfield.

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