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The Penknife
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Southeast Face T 

Southeast Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: lucabrasi on Jun 27, 2006

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Approaching the ledge where I set up the belay for...

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Description 

From the grassy ledge on the south east face of the Petit Grepon, (1) climb up the overhung dihedral to the narrow saddle between the Grepon and the Penknife. Set belay. (2) Begin climbing straight up the east side of the ridge of the Penknife. It is 5.6 slab all the way up, but there are loose rocks all over so check your handholds before committing. Stay on the east side and eventually you will reach a decent sized ledge. You can belay here or continue climbing to the summit. (3) From the ledge, go around to the north side of the tower by climbing a wide "open book" crack to the very large plateau directly on the north side. From here you have two options, you can climb directly up the slab to the summit, or head right into a squeeze chimney. At the summit enjoy awe-inspiring views of the Petit Grepon and the Sky Pond cirque.

Location 

Just south of the Gash. Descent off the rap slings to the ridge between the Penknife and the Saber.

Protection 

Lots of horns to sling and cracks for nuts. I'd be wary of cams as there seems to be much loose rock that may blow out from outward force.


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