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Clyde Minaret
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Southeast Face T 
Southeast Face, Direct Start T 
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Southeast Face, Direct Start 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,861
Submitted By: Sam Cannon on Jul 14, 2014

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Clyde's southeast face.


I believe this to be the most frequently used start for the (sandbagged, imo) 5.8 SE Face Route. While there is a series of easier pitches that traverses in from the left via a series of ramps/ledges, this is a more aesthetic line with reportedly better climbing, more consistent with the difficulties you'll encounter higher up. Corner climbing with some minor overhangs, great jams, and awesome crimps!

The SuperTopo book lists the first pitch as being 5.9 and the second being 10a. I found them both to be pretty equal, and the consensus seems to be 5.9(+). I felt there were more difficult sections (by a grade) higher up on the route, though I admittedly may have gotten off route for a section. I'll stick with 10a here as this is what is listed in guidebooks and by Peter Croft, though the consensus will likely be 9/9+. In summary, if you're confident you can do the rest of the route clean and quickly, there is no reason to avoid the direct start.

I thought these two pitches were phenomenal, and some of the best on the route (though there were some incredible ones higher up as well).

On the first pitch you'll pass a rappel station on your right, you want to keep climbing, don't set up a belay here. I did stop here, thinking it was the end of the first, and with a 70m rope I really had to stretch it to get to the top of the 2nd pitch with some sizable runouts to conserve pro. The top of the 2nd pitch is very obvious as it's a ledge that tops a minor buttress. Traverse around to your (climber's) left to join the route.


The original start begins more-or-less level with the toe of the Ken Minaret to climber's left of Clyde, while the direct start is pretty easily identified -- it's the clean, right-facing corner at the base of the SE face.

Other than being more in line with the rest of the route than the original start, both in terms of difficulty and location, it's also much easier to find.


Standard alpine rack, whatever that means for you at this grade and in this environment. I led both pitches and used doubles. Pretty straightforward protection, and plenty of it.

Photos of Southeast Face, Direct Start Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the first two pitches of the direct sta...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first two pitches of the direct sta...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorry for the poor quality pic, but at this point ...
Sorry for the poor quality pic, but at this point ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Direct Start
BETA PHOTO: Direct Start

Comments on Southeast Face, Direct Start Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Nevius
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Jul 15, 2014

Does this really warrant a new route in the database? It's 2 pitches of climbing...The rest is the same as the regular SE Face.

Maybe this is the alpine equivalent to a "sit start."
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 30, 2015

No - it should've been added as a comment - or a request made to change the original posting. Not sure what to do with it now. Maybe I'll work on incorporating it with credit to the roginal poster.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 22, 2015

I'm not that invested in it. Feel free to ax it if you'd like.
By owen david
From: Los Angeles, Ca
Dec 26, 2015

More...better. Please keep it. It's not two moves ie..."sit start", it's two "route".
By Todd Graham
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Jan 27, 2016

This is one of my favorite routes of all time, having done it car to car probably 7 times. Start hiking at 4 am ... get to base in about 3 hours. Climb the 10a tower (1.5 pitches) to a big ledge. Once on this ledge, while facing the wall, go down and left and step into/up a thin corner that climbs 10a with finger-sized cams. When you top out on this pitch on a small ledge, keep going up, until you reach a belay just to the left of the main corner. Take this .8 corner (classic!) to the notch on the ridge. Follow ridge to summit. Once on the summit go north down the ridge about 50 yards and look for a flake/horn with slings to rap from down the west side. Once you are down from the rap hike down and around to the gulley on Clyde's south side to a huge chockstone, do a short rap, then walk down to your pack. Usually ended up back at the car around 7 or 8 pm.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agreed that there is more difficult climbing on some 5.8 pitches higher on the route. Jam a knee in the offwidth (the supposed crux) and its nowhere near .10a

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