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Cleopatra's Needle
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Cleo's Needle South-Central Dihedral T 
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral T 
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib T,TR 
East Comfort Route T 
Northwest Side T,TR 
Southeast Arete T 

Southeast Arete 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 1,272
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The start, and lower half, of the Southeast Arete.


This is a climb in two parts. The lower arete has very little gear ... but good gear where you step up around the overlap, and huge holds everywhere else. Once on the ledge at mid-height, walk over to the summit block. There is decent gear again for the final few moves, where you are feeling most exposed.


Scramble down to the foot of Cleo's Needle, on the side facing the Lake. Step up out of the gully onto one of two or three different starting ledges.


Gear to 2 inches.

Photos of Southeast Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dunbar on the Southeast Arete
Dunbar on the Southeast Arete

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By Stranger In Iowa
From: IA
Jul 1, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Some blind tricam/microcam placements between base and belay ledge. Rope drag is an issue if doing the entire needle in one pitch. Recommend starting at base.
By Bradley Gorsline
From: Pasadena, California
Dec 26, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I felt the gear was pretty decent and the climbing very secure, mostly really small horizontal cams and the rope drag isn't too bad if you extend every piece.

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