REI Community
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
South face route (and alternatives) T 
South west face route (and alternatives) T 
Traditional Route (the South East Ridge) T 
West face route T 

South west face route (and alternatives) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Kewei Gao, Yeming Mei, on Oct 25, 1981
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Anmin Deng on Jan 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Mt Dabajian viewed from the south (at I Love You p...

Limited by National Park regulations MORE INFO >>>


The first FA report other than traditional route after WWII. The FA team Kewei Gao and Yeming Mei of "Himalaya climbing club" climbed in 7 pitches. Repeated reports can be found by climbing teams of National Taiwan University (NTU) Mountaineering Club.

The FA report in Chinese (originally published in "Outdoors" magazine issue 154, in Dec 1981) can be found at

. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 4, not climbing right but climbing straight up. Squeeze the overhanging big crack on the top section. FA: Weichong Wang, Mingchong Tsao of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 24, 2003.

. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 3 (starting from the very same level of the big ledge at the top of pitch 1 of south face routes), climbing up a few meters and traverse and crawl to the right for about a dozen meters and climbing up. FA: Mingyu Lai, Guowei Ye of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 25, 2003.

. NOTE: after years of massive earth quakes and typhoons, it is now (observed in 2009) not easy any more to walk on the huge ledge at the top of pitch 2 (ie, the top of pitch 1 of south face route) from the left of south west face to the south east ridge to choose your route. Parties should choose their route on either south or south west face before starting pitch 1 now.


. on the trail facing the south face, to find the left most route on the wall.

. summit and down climbing the traditional route (rappelling the crux on bolt or natural pro).


. Pitons, nuts, cams, small to fist size
. no bolt or anchor

Comments on South west face route (and alternatives) Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About