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Torre Venezia
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South Face - Tissi T 
South-West Arête (Andrich/Fae) T 

South-West Arête (Andrich/Fae) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alvise Andrich, Ernani Fae 1934
Season: Summer and Early Fall
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Nov 25, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route climbs in from the left and finishes up ...

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb up the crack to a roof, step right and go all the way to a good ledge. Delay on the left side. 40 m 5.8
Pitch 2: Climb up a crack then angle back left to stop below a yellow crack. 30 m 5.7
Pitch 3: Climb straight up the yellow crack and step right onto a belay. 20 m 5.8
Pitch 4: Climb a yellow then grey crack angling up and left. 40 m 5.7
Pitch 5: Traverse up and right for an entire pitch past a chimney then up to a ledge below a smaller dihedral that sits slightly right of the main dihedral above. 60 m 4th class.
Pitch 6: Face climb to the right of the chimney into the smaller dihedral. Climb it then steop left out of the dihedral and belay in the larger corner wherever you thinks is best based on your desire to push the length of the pitch. 25-50 meters 5.8
Pitch 7/8/9: Climb all the way to the top in the larger dihedral on excellent rock (1-3 pitches depending on how far you go). 50-80 meters 5.6

Location 

Drive to Listolade (South of Cecenighe, north of Agordo). From here turn North East through town onto a narrow road heading to Capanna Trieste. Park just past the restaurant. Hike up to Vazzoler hut (90 minutes) and continue on trail 560 beyond the hut in the direction of Rifugio Tissi (which sits below Civetta). About 30 minutes past Vazzoler hut you will come to a large meadow with giant boulders under the West faces of Torre Venezia and Punta Agordo. Hike up the hill through the scree staying to the left of the trees (you are heading right to Punta Agordo, not Torre Venezia). Once you hit the wall traverse right a few hundred meters to a gully. Follow the gully (very loose) up to a point where you can climb up and right onto a narrow ledge that traverses around the face. Traverse this ledge until it is too dangerous then rope up and finish the traverse to the foot of a crack right at the end of the ledge.
Descent: The climb ends on the “Circular Terrace.” Walk to climbers left (clock wise) around the terrace for 5 minutes until you are above the NNE face. Red marks should point the way to a small decent onto a ledge that has large ring bolts (see picture). These can be done as 6 short rappels or three rappels (30 meter, 55 meter, 55 meter) –aim for a painted red square for the final rap. From the end of the rappels weave your way down to the gully following cairns or painted dots. Descend into the gully and down it (a couple small rappels are needed) until it is possible to follow painted red marks up out of the gully to the right and wrap around the base of Torre Venezia. At that point a well-traveled trail will lead to Rifugio Vazzoler where you can get a carafe of wine for 9 euros or some beers for a bit more.
Misc Information: There are several options for staying the night prior to the climb. One could stay at the parking lot at Capanna Trieste and hike in early (1.5-2 hour approach with a downhill descent down the same road/trail). Also Rifugio Vazzoler sits directly beneath the South face of Torre Venezia – 20-30 minute approach to the Tissi Route, 1 hour or so to the Andrich/Fae Route, cost about 50 euros with dinner and breakfast. Finally you can hike beyond the Rifugio, past the South Face up to a meadow that sits below the West face (directly under the Andrich/Fae SW face route). Thoughtful tent placement out of site of the trail is possible and makes the approach to either route short. Beware that tents are officially not legal so keep a low profile. 15 minutes from this tent site or from the Refugio is a farm that will sell you cheese and Speck (smoked ham) for a very reasonable price to supplement your camping diet.

Protection 

A single set of cams 0.4 to 3 inches, a set of wires, threads, some long slings and draws.


Photos of South-West Arête (Andrich/Fae) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Long rappels into the slot between Torre Venezia a...
Long rappels into the slot between Torre Venezia a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in the upper dihedral
Climbing in the upper dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: The 60 meter traversing pitch
The 60 meter traversing pitch

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