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Shark's Nose
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South Tower Summit  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 120', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: Chris Walden on Aug 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: View from the rap anchor on the North summit of Sh...

Description 

The start of the route begins after 1 rap down from the North Summit of Shark's Nose to a small ledge/ramp beneath. Then move up and over southeast to a huge ledge to begin the traverse to the South Tower.

P1 - Belay from the large ledge and traverse across the ridge connecting to the South tower. You should find yourself on the west side of the ridge as you hit the crux an exposed burly boulder problem (2-3 moves). After these moves you gain access to a higher ridge with a decent belay spot.

P2 - You can sling the horn and/or build an anchor from the crack on the east side of the ridge. Rope drag will probably dictate this being one or two pitches. From here things ease off about 50' to the summit.

Descent:
From the summit take the raps down to the col between Shark Nose and Block Tower (60m works.) On the traverse we felt these raps here and on Block Tower were the jankiest of them all.

Location 

After one rap from the North Summit of Shark's Nose take the obvious ramp up to the ridge system southeast to the ridge connecting the South Summit.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack to #3


Photos of South Tower Summit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the rap station on the North tower of Shar...
BETA PHOTO: This is the rap station on the North tower of Shar...

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