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Second Flatiron
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Compound, The 
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Unsorted Routes:

South Sneak 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,473
Submitted By: George Bell on Jul 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Here is where we traversed onto the East Ridge. Se...

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  • Description 

    This route "sneaks" around the large overhang on the South Block (the southern and lower summit of the Second Flatiron). Approach this route by following the trail to the Second Flatiron, then continue up along the left (south) side of the second Flatiron for several hundred yards (past the start of Dodge Block).

    Roach calls this route 5.0, but I soloed it immediately after Dodge Block and it felt significantly harder. You have to do careful route finding on this route; perhaps I did not go the easiest way. This route is not in Rossiter's guide.

    Start up a big slab which is at the left side of the big overhang, about 150' up. Climb up to the base of the left side of the overhang and belay. Next comes the sneaky crux where you want to bypass the overhang to the left. Climb up a smooth trough around the overhang, eventually passing (or belaying at) two bolts. This is not the slot immediately left of the overhang (harder than 5.2), but lies 10+' left of this. This section feels exposed because it is smooth and the wall steepens below you to the west.

    Continue scrambling up an easy slab just right of a huge pine tree. At this point you can easily scramble off to the west. To continue to the summit, you must diagonal up and right at some point to join the south ridge. Exactly the easiest place to do this is not obvious. Once on the South Ridge, romp up easily to the summit, passing right over a cool arch (this arch is visible from Chataqua if you know where to look).

    Scramble easily off the summit of the South Block by heading north and then west, or you can continue to the main summit (Pullman Car) at 5.6.


    Standard Flatiron rack.

    Photos of South Sneak Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Easing sailing on the upper section. This is proba...
    Easing sailing on the upper section. This is proba...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the crux section.
    BETA PHOTO: Looking down the crux section.

    Comments on South Sneak Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Warren Teissier
    Jun 19, 2002

    George is very right on this one.

    It is way harder and exposed than Dodge Block. In addition to the crux when one bypasses the overhang, there is a 50 ft section right after that is sustained, very polished and not very featured. We soloed this route and frankly found very little in the ways of protection. There are some old pins and a couple of old bolts for a belay but not much more than this.

    I would give this route and S rating.

    It is way cool though.

    By XOG
    Feb 16, 2003

    I decided not to do onsight flatiron solos after doing this climb - I got up in the smooth polished section and thought I would have given this climb F5 instead of F3 because of the polished nature of the rock. Usually Roach's ratings are right on, but not always!
    By Kent Lugbill
    Feb 17, 2003

    I soloed this route also and found it to be quite scary. Maybe 5.5 or 5.6 would be a better rating.
    By Julian Smith
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 12, 2003

    Guess a lot of us have been suckered into soloing this thing. No one mentions this route as a good alternative to climb after backing off the South Arete, but it works OK. Never did see any of the fixed gear mentioned above. Enjoy.
    By Brian C.
    From: Longmont, CO
    Dec 10, 2014
    rating: 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a

    Pretty funny, Roach calls this 4th class. Really fun though.

    EDIT: came back and did this ropes this time. From a high belay before the SE Arete junction you can make the tree to belay in a full 60m. Zero rope to spare. Only gear on entire pitch was the old bolts. Best to solo this one. Very fine route.
    By Long Ranger
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Nov 7, 2016

    Quite an exhilarating route, what with the amount of exposure to the South. I took some variation of this that worked out fine. At the old bolts, I backtracked just a few feet down and pulled over the dihedral to another ramp system for a little while and maybe did something similar once (or twice?) again, until I was on top of the South Block. Passed the arch, which was cool. Never got to the tree, or the, "broken area", as Roach calls it - everything was SOLID! Save to say though, this was not Class 4. Pretty steep in places, but the holds were there, for the most part.

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