REI Community
South Side

Select Area...
Canary Crack Buttress 
East End Wall 
Iron Wall, The 
Memorial Wall 
Pillar Wall 
West End Wall 

South Side Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.11921, -111.93526 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,318
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 21, 2010
Forecast:
Today

73° | 45°
Thursday

70° | 44°
Friday

64° | 35°
Saturday

63° | 33°
Sunday

63° | 35°
Monday

66° | 38°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A look at the walls of the South Side of Volunteer...

Description 

The South Side of Volunteer Canyon is a stunning array of well balanced columns. While some of it is losing ground in the battle against erosion and gravity, there are pockets of the cliff that are unbelievably solid and offer up some timeless routes.

Rock Climbing Photo: Joel Unema at the crux transition of Phantsam 5.11...
Joel Unema at the crux transition of Phantsam 5.11, during his onsight.

Wade Forrest Photo


These routes require rapping to specific belays, and climbing out, which may make them a bit tricky to find your first time out. For now, all I can say is that it is best to locate the routes from the North Side of the canyon, and eye the topouts well. There are faint trails, and to the discerning eye the topouts should be recognizable.

Rock Climbing Photo: JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug du...
JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug during his first lead attempt of what would become Nyctophiliac, 5.12-.


The East End Wall and The Pillar Wall both face North, and in the dead of summer hold fast to their shade. The Canary Crack Butress, the Iron Wall, and the West End Wall face Northwest, and stay in the shade until early afternoon. More shade in the fall.


In order of appearance from the falls

The East End Wall
The Pillar Wall
The Canary Crack Buttress
The Memorial Wall
The Iron Wall
The West End Wall


Rock Climbing Photo: Big hands for a big crack. Steve Grossman and the ...
Big hands for a big crack. Steve Grossman and the Canary Crack 5.10. 1970's


The most accessible and enjoyable camping is also found on the rim of the South Side.

We have encountered Black Tail Rattlesnakes in temperatures near 90 degrees. Watch your step, and watch out for your dogs.

Getting There 

You can almost drive to the rim! Find the point, and start poking around.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.7 miles from here

44 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',12],['5.11',10],['5.12',11],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Side:
Red's Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Canary Crack Buttress
Canary Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Canary Crack Buttress
Rusted Rapture   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   East End Wall
Honey Cwm   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   The Iron Wall
Pig Iron   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Iron Wall
Experimental Forrest   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 80'   East End Wall
Sindarete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   Memorial Wall
Parallel Universe   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Pillar Wall
Phantasm   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   West End Wall
Cash, Grass, or Ass   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   West End Wall
Daywalker   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 100'   East End Wall
Iron Potato   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Iron Wall
Nyctophiliac    5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   West End Wall
Ultraviolet Ammunition   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 105'   East End Wall
Seamingly Binary   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 70'   Memorial Wall
Jade Feather   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   West End Wall
Nightwalker   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   East End Wall
Death Dealer   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 105'   East End Wall
A Flickering Flame   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   West End Wall
Like a Shadow in the Night   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   West End Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Side

Featured Route For South Side
Rock Climbing Photo: Falconer

The Falconer 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  Arizona : Northern Arizona : ... : The Iron Wall
Start either on the ground just right of a large juniper, or begin 20 feet up on a ledge with a belay bolt. Climb a clean right facing corner to a stance. Stem your way up using finger/hand jam pods as they come. Once out of the stem box launch into steep fingers to jugs. 20 more feet or moderate climbing takes you to the rim.Above is the original description from the FA party recovered by wayback machine....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of South Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset over the south walls...
Sunset over the south walls...
Rock Climbing Photo: .
.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rare view of the south walls looming
Rare view of the south walls looming
Rock Climbing Photo: South Walls topo
BETA PHOTO: South Walls topo

Comments on South Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Davidson
Jun 26, 2013
You guys should try hard to drag Baxter out there and get him to document the stuff he did out there. Seemed like the few times I went out there with him he kept pointing out other stuff he'd done.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 26, 2013
It does bum me out that the history here wasn't as well documented as other older crags like the Forks and the Overlook. There are some damn hard lines to do, and it won't surprise me if this place churns out a few test pieces for this generation to chew on...
By john crawley
From: flagstaff, az
Jun 29, 2013
And the drums go ba da ch! For Darren.
By Paul Davidson
Jul 1, 2013
A lot of the history wasn't recorded for a few reasons.
There was never a ton of activity for one. The area has a certain feel and look to it. Some of the walls look like they might decide to pay homage to gravity any day now. Most stuff was just word of mouth, way back when. There were a number of test pieces for the time that were scattered out there, most of the hard stuff was on the south side. And originally, it was out there all by itself. Once the Forks was found, well... There was enough to do there to stay pretty occupied.

Those new routes look really cool.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About