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South Side of Buffalo Pinnacle T 

South Side of Buffalo Pinnacle 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Stan Wagon & Joe Kramarsic, 2003?
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Zac Snelling on May 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Follow the rope to see the approximate line. Where...


This is definitely an 'adventure climb'. The leader starts by standing on a loose block that overlooks a 200' drop. From here, begin climbing up the 10' face then move left onto slabby areas and work up a wide diagonal crack. From here, route find your way between the two prominent 'horns' that comprise the summit. Rope drag, bad falls, and loose rock are all issues here.


Finding this feature is easiesy accomplished from the top down as opposed to the bottom up. Climb Buffalo Mountain and carefully make your way down Y-Coluior and you will see it sticking up prominently to the left.


Standard rack.

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By Rick Blair
From: Denver
May 13, 2010

Thanks for putting this up. Awesome job! To me this is what mountain project is all about.
By Taylor-B.
From: Valdez, AK
Oct 5, 2010

That looks like the north side of Buffalo with the big rock buttress of Red Mountain in the background.
By stan wagon
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Just found this report. So someone finally found the jar Joe Kramarsic and I left in ...2003. My notes called it 5.6. I don't recall anything close to the difficulty of, say, Bastille Crack. [Of course, it is possible you took a slightly different route to the same summit; can't quite tell.]

The S side of the pinnacle, which you and I did, is certainly the easiest way. I wonder if anyone will ever try the N side of the pinnacle, which looks like a much longer climb.

We did it as you did, by climbing Buffalo to the summit and descending to find the pinnacle. After the climb, we continued down to the valley between Buff and Red, I think with one very short rappel or rope aid at a step.

And, yes, this is the N side of Buffalo, but the S side of the Pinnacle (which we call the Buffalo Horn).

Stan Wagon, Silverthorne

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