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South Side Crags

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Area 51 
Brilliant Pebble, The 
Orange Wall 
Other Place, The 

South Side Crags Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,558
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013  with updates from Alex Ivanov
Forecast:
Tonight

21°
Sunday

43° | 35°
Monday

47° | 33°
Tuesday

44° | 28°
Wednesday

35° | 16°
Thursday

23° | 14°
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This is how access issues begin. Total lack of res...

  • South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>
  • Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The "South Side" of the Meadow River is one of the most diverse areas in the entire NRG region, with climbs from 5.4 to 5.14, sport and trad, summer shade, and free camping. For this reason, it's been getting quite crowded over the last few years, and right now there are some access issues with the landowner (see "access issues" in this section before making a trip here).

    Getting There 

    • **PRIOR ACCESS VIA PROPP'S RIDGE ROAD TO THE SOUTH SIDE CRAGS HAS BEEN CUT OFF BY LANDOWNERS. DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE IN THIS WAY. AT BEST YOU'LL HAVE TO TURN AROUND BECAUSE OF ROADBLOCKS- AT WORST YOU COULD JEOPARDIZE ACCESS Please view ACCESS ISSUES link above and the more detailed information here: NRAC Meadow River access info ***

    This change has been in effect for a couple of years now, but this is still good information to those new to the New River region, or just those seeking to sample the South Side Meadow crags for the first time.

    The best (however not most convenient) way to approach is to park in the same spot as the Lower Meadow crags- off Deitz Rd in a parking area- walk down to the river, cross and hit the path along the river from there. Alternatively, you can cross Highway 19 (thus crossing the river using the bridge) and hit the shoulder and follow the trail that leads to the path along the river. If you don't want to park at Deitz Rd, you can park along 19 just before the bridge (approach described in detail below), but do so at your own risk:

    From Fayetteville, drive north on route 19 towards Summersville. Park on the shoulder just before the start of the meadow river bridge. A well worn trail should lead from the shoulder down to a nice flat trail along the river. Turn right at the base of the trail and hike upstream. You should pass a very distinct roadblock consisting of a few large boulders after about 30 minutes or more. Keep hiking - you will pass The Other Place on the right after a few minutes. You could take this this trail and hike along the cliff line to Area 51 or continue on the main trail for another 5-10 minutes, looking for another trailhead near large boulders. Total approach is about 2.5 miles.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.5 miles from here

    75 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',14],['5.11',16],['5.12',27],['5.13',8],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in South Side Crags

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Side Crags:
    Free Range Show Poodle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Area 51
    Hundred Acre Wood   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Other Place
    Another Tigger in the Morgue   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Area 51
    D.D.   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Other Place
    Rosetta Stone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Other Place
    New Mexican Rodeo   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Other Place
    Disco   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Other Place
    Instant Gratification   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Area 51
    Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Other Place
    Waco not Hueco   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Area 51
    Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Other Place
    Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Other Place
    Replicant   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   Area 51
    U Boat   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Other Place
    Hook, Line and Tigger   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   The Other Place
    Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Other Place
    Macauley's Irish Stout   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Other Place
    Cage Match   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Area 51
    B-52   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Other Place
    The Project   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Area 51
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Side Crags

    Featured Route For South Side Crags
    Rock Climbing Photo: Two bolts protect the start. Forget about placing ...

    Heart of Darkness 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Orange Wall
    The meat of this route is at the bottom. You can start below the first bolt (a good hold broke here while we were on it, so it is probably a bit harder), or ~6 ft to the left. Clip the only two bolts on the route, and pump your way through some typical New River Gorge not-really-crack-climbing. After this, enjoy easier gear protected climbing to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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