South Side Crags Rock Climbing
This is how access issues begin. Total lack of res...
The "South Side" of the Meadow River is one of the most diverse areas in the entire NRG region, with climbs from 5.4 to 5.14, sport and trad, summer shade, and free camping. For this reason, it's been getting quite crowded over the last few years, and right now there are some access issues with the landowner (see "access issues" in this section before making a trip here).
- **PRIOR ACCESS VIA PROPP'S RIDGE ROAD TO THE SOUTH SIDE CRAGS HAS BEEN CUT OFF BY LANDOWNERS. DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE IN THIS WAY. AT BEST YOU'LL HAVE TO TURN AROUND BECAUSE OF ROADBLOCKS- AT WORST YOU COULD JEOPARDIZE ACCESS Please view ACCESS ISSUES link above and the more detailed information here: NRAC Meadow River access info ***
This change has been in effect for a couple of years now, but this is still good information to those new to the New River region, or just those seeking to sample the South Side Meadow crags for the first time.
The best (however not most convenient) way to approach is to park in the same spot as the Lower Meadow crags- off Deitz Rd in a parking area- walk down to the river, cross and hit the path along the river from there. Alternatively, you can cross Highway 19 (thus crossing the river using the bridge) and hit the shoulder and follow the trail that leads to the path along the river. If you don't want to park at Deitz Rd, you can park along 19 just before the bridge (approach described in detail below), but do so at your own risk:
From Fayetteville, drive north on route 19 towards Summersville. Park on the shoulder just before the start of the meadow river bridge. A well worn trail should lead from the shoulder down to a nice flat trail along the river. Turn right at the base of the trail and hike upstream. You should pass a very distinct roadblock consisting of a few large boulders after about 30 minutes or more. Keep hiking - you will pass The Other Place on the right after a few minutes. You could take this this trail and hike along the cliff line to Area 51 or continue on the main trail for another 5-10 minutes, looking for another trailhead near large boulders. Total approach is about 2.5 miles.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
75 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Side Crags
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Side Crags
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Side Crags:
Featured Route For South Side Crags
Heart of Darkness 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Orange Wall
The meat of this route is at the bottom. You can start below the first bolt (a good hold broke here while we were on it, so it is probably a bit harder), or ~6 ft to the left. Clip the only two bolts on the route, and pump your way through some typical New River Gorge not-really-crack-climbing. After this, enjoy easier gear protected climbing to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in WV