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South Ridge 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

   
Type:  Trad, 2800'
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c Steep Snow [details]
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Page Views: 931
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Aug 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Little Matterhorn

Description 

Park at mile marker 28, cross Ptarmigan Creek and ascend up the School Bus Gulley. In the winter this a steep terrain trap for avalanches. This is the best way to gain access to the upper glacier in the summer. Allow 1.5-3 hrs to gain the glacier.

Once on the glacier cross it and ascend up the snow/ice slope to gain the col to the south ridge. In the winter the climbing is composed of steep snow and corniced ridge climbing and in the summer it is a 4th and 5th class scramble.

Protection 

A glacier Kit is recommended. Crampons and ice axe.


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