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South Ridge T 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Mod. Snow [details]
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Jul 16, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The Trolls. S Ridge on the R.

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


This is the right-hand skyline of The Trolls formation as viewed from the airstrip. To gain the ridge climb the snow to the col between the South Troll proper and the chossy sub-peak to the south.

Once at the col 120m of 4th and low 5th along the ridge gets you to the base of a prominent tower/step at a stance with a slung block and fixed nut.

The tower is high quality, steeper rock with good cracks. The climbing on the tower starts at 5.9 but be prepared to climb 5.10 (or harder) for a one or two pitches if you want to climb to it's top. From the top of the tower descend to a notch and choose either a slab or a chimney to access the low 5th summit ridge."Cragging" on this feature might be a worthy objective in it's own right.

To continue to the summit on easier terrain climb 40m up and left on ledgy terrain just past a rap station to flakes on the edge of a gully.

Continue straight up low 5th class rock until you can veer left over the top of a big chockstone onto easier ground, about 45m.

Above the chockstone the gully broadens into a shallow bowl that may be holding snow (visible from the airstrip). Work your way up to the base of the steeper headwall on the left. Many options exist here, 40 - 60m.

Climb one of several lines of weakness on the headwall. This will probably be the crux of the route, 40 - 60m.

From the top of the headwall continue on low 5th class terrain to the summit.


There are two descent options. One, descend the route.

Two, rappel to the north into the notch between South and Middle Trolls, traverse over to the South Face of Middle Troll and rap that route. It's 80 - 90m of rappelling and experience says that shorter raps are preferable. The first rap station is about 30 feet away from the actual summit and might require some snow removal to locate. As elsewhere in Little Switzerland expect to leave some cord to improve rap stations. A few thin pins might not be a bad idea.


Standard rack. Bring some extra cams if climbing on the tower.

Photos of South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Trolls. S Ridge on the R.
BETA PHOTO: The Trolls. S Ridge on the R.

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