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Pedra de Cumbira
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South Ridge S 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Araujo P. Cunha (JAN2013)
Season: Dry season
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Pat M on Sep 11, 2014

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Photo: P. Cunha

Description 

P1: Start on south shoulder of the dome, look for first bolt ~15-20 feet up. 7-8 bolts. 2 bolt belay. 5.4 (200')
P2-P4: Follow easy rock past safely spaced bolts with 2 bolt belays. 5.4-5.6 (200' each)
P5: Straight up steep part of shoulder past adequate bolts. Follow line of least-lichen. Crux comes about mid-pitch and continues with delicate friction on lichen to 2 bolt belay. 5.8+ (200')
P6: Off belay climbing gradually eases. Follow bolts over some small flakes to a belay just below the start of vegetation at which point the slab is walk-able.
Walk to the summit from here.

Location 

South end of Pedra Cumbira... in the grass just above the south end of the village. Easy to locate and the villagers will show you the way if you ask.

Protection 

12-15 quick draws/long slings. Well-bolted with solid 2 bolt belays. Must have 2 x 60m ropes to rappel. Most of the belays do not have ledges, but the slab is low angle enough for them to be relatively comfortable. Nevertheless, bring a thick padded harness if you have one.


Photos of South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In honor of Rui's efforts establishing this route,...
In honor of Rui's efforts establishing this route,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick hacking grass on the approach with entoura...
Patrick hacking grass on the approach with entoura...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rough trail map.
BETA PHOTO: Rough trail map.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rui on the summit after the FA.
Rui on the summit after the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo: R. Araujo
BETA PHOTO: Topo: R. Araujo
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of route location
BETA PHOTO: Map of route location
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo: R. Araujo
BETA PHOTO: Topo: R. Araujo

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