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Aiguille de l'M
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North Ridge T 
South Ridge T 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: FRA - Brandon, Brown and Simmons July 2014
Season: Summer
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Chris S on Jul 20, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Aiguille de l'M, Boston Basin, North Cascades ...

Description 

The South Ridge is a striking feature that begs to be climbed. As a member of that first recorded ascent team, I can vouch that there was little sign of it being climbed before, except for a 20+ year-old chewed up and faded white rap sling at the top of pitch two. It also features an abundance of loose, lichen-y rock that will keep it from being "classic" unless it gets a lot of traffic. This is certainly an "adventure climb"!

Pitch 1 - 20m, 4th class. Gain the South Ridge from the snowfields, then traverse aproximately 70' down and right to the start. 20m - Climb straight up to gain the ridge line. DO NOT link with Pitch 2, as your belayers will be in the fall line of any P2 rockfall.

Pitch 2 - 30m, low 5th class. Climb the ridge! Pitch ends in a small notch below a gendarme. The historic rap sling (only sign of an earlier attempt) are on the overhanging horn. Scary to think of rappelling on the that!

Pitch 3 - 30m, 5.6. Bypass the gendarme on the right, keeping to the more difficult but also more solid rock. Regain the ridge and stop just short of the notch.

Pitch 4 - 30m, low 5th class. Continue up the ridge to the cockscomb belaying just short of the summit ridge.

Pitch 5 - 30m, low 5th class. Best broken into 2 or 3 quick short pitches to the summit.

Descent: Descend the North Ridge.


Photos of South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon and Brown on the airy pitch 4 of the South...
Brandon and Brown on the airy pitch 4 of the South...

Comments on South Ridge Add Comment
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By Chris S
Jul 20, 2014

Sorry, I was bumped off while entering the information for this climb and now I can't seem to finish the entry - can an admin sort help me out?

The South Ridge is a striking feature that begged to be climb. As a member of that first recorded ascent team, I can vouch that there was little sign of it being climbed before, except for a +20 year-old chewed up and faded white rap sling at the top of pitch two. It also features an abundance of loose, lichen-y rock that will keep it from being "classic" unless it gets a lot of traffic. This is certainly an "adventure climb"!

Pitch 1 - 20m, 4th class. Gain the South Ridge from the snowfields, then traverse aproximately 70' down and right to the start. 20m - Climb straight up to gain the ridge line. DO NOT link with Pitch 2, as your belayers will be in the fall line of any P2 rockfall.

Pitch 2 - 30m, low 5th class. Climb the ridge! Pitch ends in a small notch below a gendarme. The historic rap sling (only sign of an earlier attempt) are on the overhanging horn. Scary to think of rappelling on the that!

Pitch 3 - 30m, 5.6. Bypass the gendarme on the right, keeping to the more difficult but also more solid rock. Regain the ridge and stop just short of the notch.

Pitch 4 - 30m, low 5th class. Continue up the ridge to the cockscomb belaying just short of the summit ridge.

Pitch 5 - 30m, low 5th class. Best broken into 2 or 3 quick short pitches to the summit.

Descent: Descend the North Ridge.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 21, 2014

Thanks Chris for posting.

I put the info in your comment into the Description.

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