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South Ridge S 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: P. Murdock D. Gennarelli (May 2014)
Season: Cacimbo
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Pat M on Jun 3, 2014

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3 climbers on the summit after 2nd ascent...

Description 

Great casual route to an amazing summit. Feels like gym climbing with a big cobble where you need it for every move. As with any less-traveled route, loose rock can be an issue, but the cobbles are quite solid.

Start: Just left of a shallow chimney on the south edge of the tower. There is a clear band of cobbles going up the rounded arete left of the chimney and right of an incipient crack. The first 2 bolts will be visible from the ground.

Pitch 1: Move up left on some small ledges to gain the cobble band, clip the first bolt, then trend up and right past 2 more bolts to a small overlap. Pass this (sling a big cobble for extra pro) and continue past 2 more bolts to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5 bolts. 5.7 (150 ft)

Pitch 2: Shuffle the belay right onto the huge grass ledge (no anchor). Move up, just right of a small tree into an small depression/crack. There is a hole (added on the descent) for a removable bolt in the back depression, or just continue up and left onto the rounded arete. Pass a large stopper placement (optional) and continue up to a bolt at a small sloping ledge. Continue up and left through a water channel (darker rock) past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor above a small grassy ledge. There is a removable bolt hole down on the small grassy ledge to offset the belay stance if desired. 2 bolts. 5.6 (120 ft)

Pitch 3: Move up and left off the belay to a bolt, then trend up and right passing 4 more bolts to a ledge just right and down from the summit ridge. 2 bolt anchor is just below summit ridge. 5 bolts. 5.8 (100 ft)

Descent: Double rope rappel the route. Watch for ropes getting hung on cobbles.

Location 

South side of tower. Route is clearly visible from the road.

Protection 

As with most routes that we have done here, removable bolts are useful, although not required for this route. Extra long slings are also useful to reduce rope drag and sling horns where desired.


Photos of South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice casual route for a half-day outing after goin...
BETA PHOTO: Nice casual route for a half-day outing after goin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the big ledge at the end of the 1st pi...
Climbers on the big ledge at the end of the 1st pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan up on the final slab of pitch 3.  Even though ...
Dan up on the final slab of pitch 3. Even though ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit belay.  Car for scale.
Summit belay. Car for scale.
Rock Climbing Photo: About to reach the upper slabs of Pitch 3 (30-40 f...
BETA PHOTO: About to reach the upper slabs of Pitch 3 (30-40 f...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of the first pitch.  Our car is on th...
From the top of the first pitch. Our car is on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another island in the sky!
Another island in the sky!

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