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Peak 11,874
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South Ridge T 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1400'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Mid- to Late Summer (August)
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on Sep 3, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the South Ridge of Peak 11,874 including a...


From where the Baboon Lakes trail turns sharply downhill and left, turn uphill to the right/west. Ascend about 150 feet of easy slabs (3rd/4th class). Above the slabs, switchback up scree, talus, and pine trees to the saddle south of the summit. From the saddle, follow the ridge to north/right through trees and over boulders until above tree line.

At this point you are near the south summit. Skirt the summit on the right/east side (4th/low 5th) and continue traversing across the small saddle above a scree/talus gulley. From here, a few low 5th class moves take you to the right/east side of the main summit platform.

Ascend the final 10-15 foot summit block on its east side via a shallow, flared handcrack. The crack disappears about 4 or 5 feet from the top of the block. A spicy, unprotectable 5.6 mantle move puts you on top. The downclimb feels quite exposed. If you are not confident on the mantle up, it would be best not to attempt the block as the downclimb is not to be taken lightly.


From Blue Lake, follow the trail to Donkey Lake, then onward to Baboon Lake. When the Baboon Lake trail turns sharply left and steeply downhill into the cirque/basin, turn uphill/right/west and begin ascending 150 feet of easy slabs (3rd/4th class).


I soloed this route and felt quite comfortable in a good pair of approach shoes. However, depending on snowpack, an ice axe might be needed. As for protection on the route, the 5th class sections are short so a short/thin line (100 feet would be plenty) and 5 or 6 cams (BD 0.4 - #2 or #3) and a couple slings should do it.

Photos of South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach and climb of the South Ridge of Peak ...
BETA PHOTO: The approach and climb of the South Ridge of Peak ...

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