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South Ridge T 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 420'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 17, 2008

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P2's start looking down at the P1 belay.


This is a route of modest length with an alpinish feel along the right side of the right buttress. Certainly, it attracts the eye for the uninitiated. It has a slightly more challenging variation on pitch 1. There are certainly nice stretches of rock separated by looser, ledgier stretches. Allen suggested calling it "Hawk's Head Ridge" if no name can be found for it.

P1. Find a highly featured slab with slightly runout but delightfully easy terrain. About 80' up, move left into a corner with a 5.8 move at the top. Continue up to a ledge with an angle piton and belay, 175'.

Variation: about 40' up, you can move left into a hanging dihedral with a 5.9 move gaining the dihedral. Very pleasant slab climbing is protected by a wires-to-Aliens sized crack on the left. Join the above pitch at ~80'.

P2. Move up a small headwall past a Leeper pin just above the belay, 5.7. Continue up on easier terrain to gain the arete. Move up and right around a small roof (Hawk's Head). Then, head up into a slot. Pop out above a small roof (rope drag here) and move up to find a belay, ~190'.

P3. Continue up low 4th class to the summit. Some may unrope for this last pitch, ~60'.

Walkoff to the right. Note, it will be a bit challenging to determine where to traverse back to your gear.


This follows features along the right edge. See the photo.


To a #3 Camalot. #4 Camalot optional. 60m ropes are nice.

Photos of South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Highly featured start to P1.
Highly featured start to P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1, 5.8 version.  5.9 variation down and left from...
P1, 5.8 version. 5.9 variation down and left from...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo.

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