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Window Rock
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L to R R to L Alpha
Curtains T 
Nothing Like the Sun S,TR 
Seams to Me 
Solar Panel S,TR 
South Ridge T 
Sunshine Daydream T,S,TR 
Sunshine Face T,S,TR 
Tim's Solo T,TR 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: probably a rodent
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 14, 2007

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Description 

Okay, it may be a bit controversial to enter these routes, but the rock is on NP land, and they've been described in various guidebooks.

This is a modest route on an moderately obscure rock. It follows the blunt, south ridge for a few hundred feet. Not a destination climb, but if you are there....

Find the approximate nadir of the rock. This does require some scrambling.

P1. Ascend a nice, low-angled crack with some brief stemming. There is a chockstone on the right at the crux. 170'. 5.7.

P2. The crux of this pitch seems to be right off the belay, 7+, little pro. Then dance up a fun face section, perhaps PG-13. Save a #3 & #3.5 Camalot for the belay. 200'. 5.7+.

P3. Drop down into a slot/chimney, move over to the slab and cruise up easier terrain to a 2 bolt anchor. 110'. 5.5.

You can rap off the anchor to the west into a slot and down. You may be able to continue another pitch to the top of the Sunshine Daydream anchor and rap.

Location 

This starts at the lowest point of the south edge of the rock.

Protection 

A lighter rack up to #3.5 Camalot. 200' rope helps.


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