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The Fist or Hippo Head
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South Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 650'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: George Bell on Jun 14, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Taken from the top of Angel's Way. The righthand ...

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This route climbs the long 650' south ridge of the Fist. Climb a vague crack around the right side of the ridge to get started, but you can then climb quite close to the arete itself (this section of the route is somewhat runout). When you reach a difficult headwall, move right (north) on a ledge system, aiming for a hand crack which breaches the middle of the upper east face.

You can belay at a tree at the base of the crack. Climb this fun, easy hand crack to the summit area. The summit block itself is easily climbed on the east side.

To escape the summit, rappel 50 feet to the North from the ledge below the summit block. It is recommended to bring some 10 feet of webbing in case you have to set up the rappel around the huge rock horn.


Light rack.

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By Brian C.
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 1, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is very enjoyable. I enjoyed it much more than the East Face.
By Ryan Marsters
Feb 12, 2017

The west face downclimb is around 5.5. The downclimb is short but appears featureless with a poor landing.

Curl around the south side of the summit block and above the crack to the closest point to the ground. There are slings set for a ~40 ft rap. To downclimb, aim for a red, rounded flake, and note crimps and ledges. The crux appears to be the last several ft, but it is actually the middle section. Crimp, reverse mantel, and smear down, using the small ledges to scout. Once at the flake, either jump to a nearby boulder or use low horizontal finger cracks to swing over to it.

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