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Pigeon Rock
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South Ridge T 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c X [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Aug 30, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Really a bomb? Kind of fun, neat summit.

2016 Seasonal Closures lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Don't fall! Climb the incredibly chossy South Ridge to a chossy summit, and rap using your partner as a counterweight off the other chossy side of the tower. Recommended only to bag the summit of this obscure spire.

Protection 

No pro-worst rock in the garden so nothing would probably hold. There is also no gear on top-tie a rope to your partner, and toss the other end off the other side and do a single strand rap.


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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 16, 2005

Gear Alert
It may be short, but it is one of the scariest climbs I have ever been on. There is pro, but I don't think any of it would hold a leader fall and contrary to the guide, there definitely are no anchors at the top. The only good way to belay from above is on the opposite summit side of the tower with some creative placements and your own body weight. Make sure your partner knows not to fall getting over there since the pendulum could easily rip both of you off the top. Not recommended.
By Vincent Morton
From: Colorado Springs,Colorado
Jun 2, 2007

My partner and I climbed it a couple of days ago during one of our obscure route days. Don't bother with pro...it's not needed and as previously stated, it probably won't hold much of a fall anyway. There are no anchors up top, so the best way down is by simul-rapping. Or, just downclimb.