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South Ridge of the Thumb 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 4, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This is a fine route. It was [my] first route in [Colorado] about two decades ago, and then recently repeated. I enjoyed it [thoroughly] both times.

This route is a two pitch route-

P1: The first pitch is done on the SE side of the rock, to access the upper pitch. The exact location of the first pitch is not important, but the idea is to ascend up to and then leftward (south) on the large ledge above the school slabs. Continue left passing a few chain anchors to reach a 2-bolt belay without chains, on the South end of the rock.

P2: The second pitch wanders up and right above the overhang, then continuing up the ridge of the rock [to the] summit. This pitch is about 100 feet long and is somewhat runout, although it is not difficult to climb. It is somewhat reminiscent of [Flatirons] climbing but on granite.

Belay on large boulders up top, then walk West to rap 100' from a top anchor to the ground. Great route, and fun!


A few of this and that, but nothing very frequent. I got a few solid cams in horizontals. You could get more if you wander around looking for it, but at 5.3, the climb is reasonable with little gear. The belay mid-route is on 2 standard bolt & hangers.

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By Eli Helmuth
From: Ciales, PR
Sep 10, 2013

Since 2012, there is a bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch of this route, 5' horizontal below the summit plateau. It is not equipped for rappelling.

The best rappel descent is either of two newer anchors with chains on the northwest corner of this cliff. The left one is just below a ledge (top of Rest in Peace) and harder to see. A belay out may be helpful to access for the first person. Both rappels are in the 30m range, so it is a good idea to put knots in the ends and try to avoid throwing them in the gigantic pine near the base.

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