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South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun] 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,844
Submitted By: Guy H. on May 5, 2002

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You run and you run to catch up with the sun, but ...

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  • Description 

    Roach lists this climb as a "F5" Flatiron classic. There is some good climbing on this ridge. Your second should be solid due to a few exposed notches that must be downclimbed.

    From the approach trail between the 1st and 2nd, follow the a faint climber's trail that leads to the west. The first rock you bump into is Sunset. Follow the trail to the lowest point, passing one false ridge line.

    P1. Start 10 feet uphill for the lowest point on the ridge, angle to the left, and gain the ridge line. Follow fun slab climbing past a notch and then a pine tree leaning up against the rock to a belay in the 2nd notch (5.3, ~180 feet).

    P2. The crux pitch. Downclimb the notch, and gain a runout groove. Climb up to the right-leaning roof system and place a small TCU. The easiest way over this obstacle is to downclimb from the roof and gain the rib near a large hole. Belay up and to the left on the arete (exciting F5, ~100 feet).

    P3. Downclimb into a notch, and find a tunnel through to the east face. Belay at the next good ledge to reduce rope drag (~100 feet).

    P4. Run up the tiptoe slab to the false summit (~180 feet).

    P5. Tag the summit... (~50 feet).

    Descent: downclimb between the two summits, and angle back towards the 1st Flatiron (F3).


    Rack to a #3 Camalot, small TCUs are helpful.

    Photos of South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun] Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: We didn't find the Hole, but stepped across from t...
    We didn't find the Hole, but stepped across from t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: the 5.4 ridge of chase the sun...
    the 5.4 ridge of chase the sun...

    Comments on South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun] Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 12, 2004

    In soloing this, I was stopped for awhile at a place not recognizable in the Roach description. The description above should work better. I passed the crux by passing right on the corner and delicately climbing up to the horn at 5.5 to reach the basin.
    By Mike McMahon
    From: Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
    Jun 17, 2007
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

    I also soloed this one. Taking Roach's suggestion, I did this one around sunset, and caught the sun by the summit... The key was the 'hole' off the side of the 'basin' on the 'second pitch.' Great views of the First!
    By Long Ranger
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    May 12, 2016

    Wow, I've never found the hole/tunnel... yet! The crux for me was near the summit, there's a delicate traverse on the right side that reminds me of the crux boulder on Broadway on Long's. Airy! After being on that rounded arete for so long!

    The other awesome move is gaining the ridge again after a small downclimb. Feet aren't so good, and the next part is not connected to what you're standing on, but you can lean into the next piece, catching your fall with your hand, find a big jug and haul yourself up!

    Super fun! Some friable rock, a bit more lichen than you may want, but a total slabaneering classic.

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