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South Platte Offwidths Tick List

Original Post
Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

I'd like to get a list going of good offwidths (or squeeze chimneys) worth doing in the South Platte area in the 5.8 to 5.11 range. I know there are several extensive lists for offwidths around the Boulder area but nothing for South Platte. Is there a Platte Hardman Offwidth Circuit? Please share any recommendations, thanks!

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Hmmmm. The only one I did recently was Buttkicker at Da Butts. I'll just throw that out there now as a OW crux climb that's a nice one right in the middle of the range you asked for, being 5.10a or maybe 5.9+. Sidewinder is very good, and in the same range. I recall it being more continuous at the OW sizes, but it's been a little longer since I've done it.

gunter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 10

Sidewinder is pretty sick...

gunter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 10

I hear "For turkey's only" is a pretty goddamn hard OW...

Nick Sandstrom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 135

Quivering Quill is great and short!

Nick

Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582

In the 5.11 range, the Maelstrom and Don't Fear the Boogie Man are both classics. They both face south and may be a good choice this for time of year.

I'd call For Turkeys Only 12-. In my opinion, it is as hard as Squat and Trip Master Monkey in Veadauwoo

I can give you a list of a bunch more if you need

Olaf Mitchell · · Paia, Maui, Hi, · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 4,190

The Maelstrom is my choice of South Platte not to miss off widths. It's a Maurice Reed classic!

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35
Jason Haas wrote: I can give you a list of a bunch more if you need
If you have a list I would certainly take it! Thanks
Jason Kaplan · · Glenwood ,Co · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 3,370

quivering quill is more like thin hands and hands, maybe 10' of OW on that one. Sidewinder is awesome. Sugar magnolia is pretty good too. If quivering quill qualifies then cardiac crack does too(quite a few good looking OWs in that area), and maybe the second pitch of turkey foot (even though I got mostly good fists). second pitch of castle corner. smoke a fatty. The bombay variation on turkeys delight is fun, steppenwolf, and gobble up are good too.

The maelstrom and rip van winkle look pretty damn good but I have yet to get on them. oh, not in the platte but crack a beer in CCC is pretty sweet though pretty hard turning the lip.

Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582

Sidewinder is good, as is Sposi-Isaacs. Bishop Offwidth is pretty good and sustained. Moot Point is pretty fun and pretty mellow for the grade. The Bitch has an offwidth start to a physical fist crack higher up. Not completely offwidth, but you'll feel like you've been in the octogon by the time you're done with it. Fender Route is classic, as is the Dungeon - consider this the offwidth must do for the grade in the Platte. Heinous Anus, Blood Pudding, and Short as Shit, Hard as Hell are good too. The Aerie is an amazing pitch. The crux down low is an offwidth but it is a pretty varied route with a killer hand crack finish. Tony's Pantalones has a cool 5.11+ offwidth roof on it. Cardiac Crack has a bit of everything from fingers to fists; it's only offwidth at the top if you don't have big hands - but it's an amazing pitch! Hmmm, a couple others that come to mind are Laughing Stock, Once is Enough, and Meat Pipe. There's a bunch more in the south, but you can find most of those routes in the Northern Volume guidebook. Hope that helps

gunter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 10

I wouldn't consider the Quill an OW ether. Though steep and fun it is one or two moves at most of the wide. Lots of great suggestions on here. I forgot about steppenwolf, even though its only 20-30 feet of OW I still have scars on my ankles.

Nick Sandstrom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 135

Id agree that Quivering quill is mostly thin hands to hands but that section is maybe 5.8-5.9.. the end as I said is short but I actually had to offwidth it unlike steppenwolf or the fatter 5.8 next to it. that 10 feet was a challenging and certainly didnt climb like a hand crack.

Nick

Kent Pease · · Littleton, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,066

The Top of the World area has a high concentration of OW's, both moderates and test pieces. See both the Chair Rocks area and the Boulder Pile area. Although these are not as well-known as some of the other climbs noted in this thread, there is a nice collection of wide stuff that should be on any SP'ers tick list. Explore yourself or I can provide specifics if you want.

This area is not too good as a winter destination (some climbs will be OK though), but it is good in the spring after Cathedral Spires closes. The approach (bike) and logistical hassle are worth it.

Olaf Mitchell · · Paia, Maui, Hi, · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 4,190

+1 on Chair Rock OW's

Tyler Vaughan · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 225

Dont fear the boogie man and Hand Job on cynical pynacal

Danimal. Young · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 0

Offwidth ticklist? You sick bastards.

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

Prairie dog Crematorium. Two pitches of fun sustained OW. The new book calls it something else....can't remember.... Then there is a super follow-up climb above it. Also fun and sustained.
And yeah, Meatcleaver!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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