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South Pipe Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Steve Wood, 9/04
Page Views: 3,451
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Jun 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Jason Poole finishing up the South Pipe Route.

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


This is a long and fun route up the right side of the Ripple Wall. The crux may be getting off the ground. Although mostly easy climbing, it is a bit runout by Red Rock standards, but not bad at all. I recommend belaying your partner up to the anchor to avoid rope drag and to enjoy the view.

Rappel with two ropes to the left to make the pull easier.


This is the third route from the right on the Ripple Wall. Start just left of Jumping the Gun, angling up and left past two drilled angle pitons. Continue traversing straight left to a third piton, then climb straight up to the very top of the wall. The last piton currently has a screw link on it, but this is not the anchor, continue another 25 feet or so to reach the obvious anchor. Rappel with TWO ropes.


5 drilled pitons, 2 huge eyebolts, and 1 railroad spike! Make sure you have 3 long runners to girth-hitch the eyebolts and spike. Anchor consists of 3 drilled angle pitons and two modern bolts.

Photos of South Pipe Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing slings on the big eye bolts at the beginni...
Placing slings on the big eye bolts at the beginni...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the lower section of the South Pipe R...
Looking down the lower section of the South Pipe R...

Comments on South Pipe Route Add Comment
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By Nathan Hoobler
Jul 14, 2008

Is it possible to rap this with a single 70m rope? I've climbed it before I had a 70m and I've been curious if I could leave the 2nd rope behind...
By abc
Jul 14, 2008

Yes, a 70m will just get you down, but make sure to tie a note at the end of the rope since not all 70m ropes are actually 70m.
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 10, 2008

Just climbed this today with Nathan... watch out for the junky stuff toward the bottom. Also had a significant amount of pebbles coming down. Several "pull down not out" opportunities. One even crumbled under my foot.
By Patrick Manitou
From: Atlanta, GAAAAA
Apr 30, 2010

A fun route, I like the style too- more like mountaineering, with odd fixed gear and reasonable run-outs (compared to the other routes in the park). Could be wrong, but the start felt as hard as Jumping the Gun (5.9+) and other 9s in the area.

One last thing- I didn't know about the length of the route, and only had one 60 meter rope. Rather than lower off a single point, I decided to rap over to the anchors of Jumping the Gun. This is definitely not a good idea, the traverse over a ledge to get to the anchors involved lots of loose rock, In fact I pulled off a fist size chunk when I pulled my rope. Just saying, be smarter than me and take two ropes.

Also, the last pin no longer has a screw-link on it, which is a good thing, I'd rather not lower off that single pin.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 24, 2011

Really fun "adventure" route, more reminiscent of climbing in the Garden.
By Noah Yetter
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 11, 2016

I really wanted to try this route, but I honestly could not see how to get off the ground. There's one big ledge for the hands under the first piton but no feet at all. Jump and mantel / hand-foot match? Seriously, who's got the beta for the start, this guy wants to know!
By JWolford
Mar 20, 2017

I used the juniper tree to stem against to get up to the slopey foot holds and from there was able to smear up to the first bolt.

Alternatively my wife used the foot holds for the route immediately to the right and then traversed across to the first bolt for the South Pipe route.

Also my buddy was able to just make light, quick feet moves to get his right foot onto a bomber little foot hold about mid-torso height off the ground.

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