South Pillar Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
The South Pillar is on the far left side of Sleeping Beauty. There are one pure sport routes here (Black Rain); the rest of the routes require gear. All routes have two-bolt anchors at the top. Eds. for the purposes of better organization, we'll separate the climbs that go onto the main wall, right of the obvious gully onto the Main Wall page.
A1. Jungle of Stone
, 9, 1p, 115', gear & bolts. RFC to roof.
A2. Sleeping Beauty Girdle
, 3p, 420', gear & bolts. Start on A & traverse R across cliff.
B. Black Rain
, 10, 1p, 115', bolts. Black water streak.
C. Water Spirit
, 10, 1p, 90', gear & bolts. Crack through black roof.
Hike the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to a series of vegetated ledges on the left side. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree.
Look for a right-facing corner with a nice hand crack that leads to a small bulge/roof with a single bolt at the start. This is Jungle of Stone. To the right of this corner is a dark black streak on a slab with bolts (Black Rain 10b).
Climbing Season For the Sleeping Beauty area.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in South Pillar
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Pillar
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Pillar:
Black Rain 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Featured Route For South Pillar
Black Rain 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Colorado
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : South Pillar
Black Rain is just to the right of Jungle of Stone , and shares the first bolt with that route. It follows a prominent black water streak.Approach: From the upper end of the parking area across from the Boulderado, find some large boulders that practically span the creek. There is a large tree stump on the opposite side of the creek by these boulders. Wade the creek (or walk across the boulders in the fall) to the tree stump, and find a trail angling right up the talus, heading t...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 21, 2006
A 70m rope is seriously helpful for the South Pillar climbs. A 60m is mandatory and tying in to the end is mandatory if you're going to lower the leader rather than rappel. With a 60m, if you belay Jungle of Stone or Black Rain from the tree at the left, the leader will NOT reach the ground if you lower with a 60m, not even by swinging far right. The second will need to climb up as the leader lowers the last 15' or so. If you belay the climbs on the right from high up on the right side of the slab, you can just barely lower the leader.