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South Peak

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Hoka Hey! T 

South Peak Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.18401, -115.69993 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,301
Administrators: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brad Warne on Jun 2, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: Photo from Mark Klassen

Description 

Mt Cory's South Peak is home to the old route Cory Crack, which is the prominent chimney that cuts through the center of the face. Recently there have been a few routes added and has potential for more. The rock is generally good with high friction limestone but of course has the loose rock in places that goes with being limestone. The routes here face west and thus get afternoon and evening sun. At the moment dont expect to see many people, but as soon as people catch on to the quality of the climbing on routes such as Hoka Hey and Corys Groove, it will get busier.

Getting There 

Access to Mt Cory is made by exiting Hwy 1 and joining the Bow Valley Parkway. For the South Peak there are many options, Ill describe the two popular options.
1: Park at a small pull out approx 4.2km from the south BVP gate. Cross the road and go uphill through meadows and forest to the cliff. This route does not really have well defined trails but the routes are clear to see and direct lines to them can be taken.
2:Park at the Muleshoe Picnic area 5.5kms from the gate. Gain a trail that starts beside the outhouse and follow it across the Hwy. The trail goes up and left through a meadow and then turns right and ascends the hillside. When it levels off you will see a hiker icon sign and a fork in the trail, go left and hike up a steep open hill. At the top of the steep hill the trail will turn slightly left and gain a shoulder above a large gully. Follow this shoulder until near the end of the gully and look for a cairn and a trail leading right into the trees. From a here go a short distance through the trees and you will come to a creek bed with flagging and a cairn (remember this creek crossing as you will be coming down the creekbed on the way out). Cross the creek and head back into the trees, from here you will follow light trails up a treed shoulder until near the same height as the base of the cliff. When the shoulder opens up traverse grassy slopes to the cliff face. This approach route is quite scenic and is fairly well marked with cairns and flagging tape.
Both approach options will be roughly 1-1.5hrs

Climbing Season

For the Banff National Park area.

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Peak:
Hoka Hey!   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 9 pitches, 1350'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Peak

Featured Route For South Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Cory South Peak

Hoka Hey! 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  North America : Canada : ... : South Peak
This is a great new addition to the cliff. It is a moderate, well protected route that will inevitably become popular. It is very well protected and very well thought out. Im making the assumption (I could be wrong) that the route was put up by guides for guiding, and thus has protection to avoid things such as rock fall by ropes, rope drag and falls on traverses. The route Im sure will get bad press about too many bolts by some. The route could be climbed on gear, but would be not nearly as enj...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of South Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cory's Crack is the large Chimney in the center
BETA PHOTO: Cory's Crack is the large Chimney in the center

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