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Duncan's Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Africa's West Coast T 
Apples T,TR 
Bird Shit Avenue T,TR 
Broken Crack T,TR 
Cave Route T,TR 
Cheeseburger in Paradise TR 
Conglomerate Face TR 
Corner Climb T,TR 
Crackmard T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
Face Route T,TR 
Icebreaker Arete 
Kahlua Roof 
Liberty's Last Stand TR 
Lichen Roof TR 
Monster Block Full SDS 
Northern Unnamed T,TR 
Nose, The T 
Oranges S,TR 
Out of the Black S 
Purdy Dirty TR 
Roof Route T,TR 
South Corner T,TR 
South OW aka Front Crack T 
Unnamed Corner T,TR 
Unnamed Overhang TR 
Unnamed Top Rope Section T,TR 
Wide Side, The T,TR 
Wishbone Crack T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

South OW aka Front Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,926
Submitted By: Brian Weinstein on Aug 12, 2004  with updates from patrick donahue

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: South OW -- it's the wide crack in the center of t...


The route is located through the brush about 100 feet south of the roof route area. It's a prominent hand crack start followed by a short offwidth and tops out on a blocky face. Start with the nice hand crack (5.7+) for 15 feet to the offwidth. Enter the offwidth and grunt through (crux) whereupon climbing eases towards the top.

Note that a TR can also be set from above.

A nice and quick intro to hand cracks and offwidths.


Bringa a rack of hand and offwidth size protection. A rack with 1 small set of stoppers/tri-cams for the upper section and anchor is useful.

Per patrick donahue: bring a rack from BD c4 #2-#6, and a rack of small nuts for the top is nice.

Photos of South OW aka Front Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hug-n-pray on South OW.
Hug-n-pray on South OW.

Comments on South OW aka Front Crack Add Comment
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By Danny
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

When everything at Duncan's is taken, rest assured this one is open. This is IMHO the best route at Duncan's. Depending on the time of year, there can be varying amounts of poo poo at the beginning of the crux. A big piece (i.e., #5 Camalot) will add some piece of mind; however, some hardmen do it with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot.
By Tanner Mitchell
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 28, 2008

Anyone have any photos of this route?
By Jake Kay
From: Jackson WY
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route, with cool crux moves. A few pigeon nests, so don't mistake the bird crap for chalk marks.
By Robert Curry
From: Evans, Co
May 19, 2009

Yes, yes, the pigeon crap doesn't work very well.
By Martin Harris
Jul 30, 2010

Some of the better rock at Duncan's with a sick move from a stance around to the flake with grat jams to the top.
By John R. Williams
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 19, 2010

Very fun crux. Reach high over bulge for big hands (watch for wet poo!).
Fun route, would be a good tough lead.
By Rockanice
From: New York
Oct 19, 2015

This used to be called "Front Crack" by the old school and still is by some. Good climbing.

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