REI Community
Hobo Jungle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A No.1 S 
Band of Gypsies T 
Big Rock Candy Mountain T 
Bindlestiff T 
Boxcar Tourist S 
Cackleberry  S 
Calling In S 
Cat Wagon S 
Couch Surfer T 
Elk Sign S 
Frisk A Drag S 
Gandy Dancer S 
Grease the Tracks S 
High Hanging Biscuits S 
Hobo Hash S 
Hobophilia S 
Hobophobic S 
Hungry Hungry Hobo S 
Jolt Train T 
Jungle Buzzard  S 
Late For the Gravy Train T 
Lucky Streak S 
Mulligan Pie S 
Mulligan Stew S 
Mushfaker T 
Never Ending Night Train T 
Pie in the Sky T 
Possum Belly  S 
Railway Runaway S 
Redball S 
Road Sister S 
Shootin' Snipes T 
South of No North S 
Southern Exposure S 
Steel Reserve S 
Sweet Back S 
Sweet Back Direct S 
Tin Roof Sunday T 
Twist a Dream T 
Uberfall T 
Volt S 
Wanderer Over Yonder T 
Westbound Willy T 
Whistling Wabash, The S 

South of No North 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: D. Mabe, FFA: E.Deschamps, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,782
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: South of No North.


On the far south end of the Hobo Jungle is a striking arete. SoNN opens with steep 5.10 stemming and crack moves to a decent rest below the bulge. Crank over the steep bulge (5.11), with good holds but poor feet. Establish on to the arete with an off-balance and techy crux at the end.


far left side of the crag. A tall pine tree is at the base, as tall as the route.


9 quickdraws, preferably pre-hung.

Photos of South of No North Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South of No North
BETA PHOTO: South of No North
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren flying South of No North
Darren flying South of No North

Comments on South of No North Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 9, 2012

Steep consistent climbing with a whip in it's tail! Great line.
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great climb!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Aug 27, 2012

Almost made it. Great climb. Have to return for the last two bolts...
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 19, 2014

if youre into this sort of thing, it is fairly easy to hang the last three draws after lowering from Southern Exposure and reaching around the corner!
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 11, 2014

Great route! Although the arete stumped me... is the route intended to follow the right or left side of it?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 11, 2014

most of the holds are on the left side, Austin. But if you get suckered too far left its hard/awkward to get back.
By Pablo-Roberts
From: Prescott, Arizona
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This is perhaps one of the best lines I've climbed in flag.
By Big Ears
Mar 18, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

One of the best sport climbs in town! Every move is fun, and it gets progressively harder up until the end. Mega classic

Edit: got on this today with a friend who showed me some new beta for just after the roof move. Basically you can move left to a no hands rest, and bypass any arete moves. Definitely drops the grade a bit, but is questionably "off route". Squeezing the arete is definitely the most fun way, so that's what I recommend

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About