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South Nuttall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beckoning, The T 
Converging Paths T 
Finger Crack in White Corner T 
Guillotine  T 
Heaven Cent S 
Judgement Night S 
Killing Fields S 
Luv Nuthing T 
M&M T 
Munson Burner T 
New Traditionalists, The T 
Temporary Insanity T 

South Nuttall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.0416, -81.0376 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,574
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Jul 31, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Along the approach road, you'll see a few trees wi...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the NRG area's more remote crags. It can be complicated to get to, and has a lack of easy warmups, but once you get this place's logistics dialed, you'll be rewarded with ample summer shade, numerous 5.12 cracks, first ascent potential, and solitude. Be aware that many of the easier routes (under 5.12) lack top anchors. Some of the sport climbs may not have the best bolts either; this place has not yet seen much rebolting and many routes were put up 20 years ago.

Getting There 

This is a big crag (about the size of Endless Wall) with numerous approaches, none of them very straightforward. Many NRG climbers have gotten lost their first time coming out here, and it is a good idea to plan for at least two hours of hiking and bushwhacking your first time out here.

The Elverton Road approach outlined in the guidebook is currently off-limits. The best way in is to approach as for Domino Point, but take a faint jeep track right into the woods just before the gravel approach road switches back down under the cliffline. There are faint trails this way; follow them with the slope to the cliffline on your left, and after about 20 minutes of walking you'll be on top of South Nuttal's main areas. Rapping in to the area of your choice is the way to go and avoids the slogging through the nettle and poison ivy of the walk-down. There are a couple easy-fifth class climb-outs on the downstream end of the crag, as well as a walk-out a ways upstream of The Beckoning.

It's best to get a tour from a local for this place.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',7],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in South Nuttall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for South Nuttall:
The Beckoning   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in South Nuttall

Featured Route For South Nuttall
Rock Climbing Photo: Unnamed 5.12- finger crack.  Absolutely classic.

Finger Crack in White Corner 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : South Nuttall
This route is absolutely sick. I would most definitely say that this route is worth the trip to South Nuttall all by itself. Made the trip out to this thing about three times to get it done. Took a huge whip going for it, but this route takes good gear the whole way. The route starts in an obtuse corner with an intimidating, yet not too bad roof pull at its end. Gear is a bit spaced through here, but what you get is good. Pull into the killer finger crack section and work in a few pieces o...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Comments on South Nuttall Add Comment
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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jun 12, 2011
really cool area with way more than its share of 5.12 cracks. I don't want to give too much away about it, since the guidebook gives a pretty good description, but some beta: some of the trails to the crag are easy to lose. Wear long pants, even in the summer; they may as well call the place "South Nettle." If you can find the rap-in point, do it. It's much easier to navigate this place above the cliff, though it may take a couple trips to get the geography dialed.
By Lee Kennedy
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
5 days ago
ACCESS UPDATE: The Elverton Road access point is no longer usable. The land was purchased about a year ago and the new owner does not want people parking/hiking on it. You'll have to use Arrowhead.

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