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East Twin Peak
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East Ridge T 
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South Gully T 
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South Gully 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5000'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Steep Snow [details]
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Mat Brunton on Aug 15, 2015

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Eklutna Lake area from the ETP summit


Take the Twin Peaks trail to the alpine where the doubletrack ends at a wooden park bench (~2.6 miles). Take the rough singletrack to the left and down to the creek. Cross the creek and head up the south slopes of East Twin trending towards the obvious south gully. There is a prominent knoll with rocks just right of the gully proper at ~4000', and this is a good place to enter the gully. Once in, or near, the gully proper climb steep and loose class 3 scree in the gully (generally more solid and stable on the flanks and the rock walls on the sides can provide hand holds) through several more vertical class 4 rock steps (that are generally solid but be mindful of choss and loose gravel). Alternatively, there are steeper but more solid options just outside the gully meandering through cliff bands on the sides. In the upper reaches of the south gully it will fork. Take the right fork. There is some likely unavoidable class 4 here through a rock-choked constriction. After negotiating this obstacle follow steep scree up a narrow chute that constricts to a thin slot before opening up on the summit ridge just east of the summit. From here climb west to the summit on the north side of the mountain. This route is probably easiest in the spring (late March to early May) when the gully is filled with snow and a simple ice axe and crampons can be used. However, there will be a serious avalanche hazard to contend with. Check as a resource on conditions.


Eklutna Lake Road to the main Eklutna Lake trailhead.


3rd-4th class

Photos of South Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Typical ETP routes (climbing routes in red, snow c...
BETA PHOTO: Typical ETP routes (climbing routes in red, snow c...
Rock Climbing Photo: the final section of the south gully before toppin...
BETA PHOTO: the final section of the south gully before toppin...

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