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Santiam Pinnacle
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South Face S 

South Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Ben Stabley on Sep 5, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up P3

Description 

P1: Start in the corner, finding some bolts hidden among the moss. Follow bolts up, then right onto slabby cleaner rock. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor at a good ledge next to a tiny tree.

P2: Head out on the slabby face. Climb steepens about mid-way (crux). Belay from 2 bolt anchor on good ledge at the mouth of a large chimney feature.

P3: Do a few stemming moves near the outside of the chimney, then move onto the face. Trend right on the slab, then left toward the notch between the 2 parts of the pinnacle's summit. Optional pro in the large crack right of the notch, as you'll be fairly far above the last bolt (you can see evidence of bolt chopping on this pitch). Belay from new bolt anchor with chains in notch (or on the summit).

Descent: Rap the route in 3 raps with a 60m rope. Each belay station has rap rings.

An alternative rappel from the summit north into a notch where the pinnacle connects with the hillside is also described. This alternative must be possible since I found the chains oriented in that direction when I arrived at the summit, despite the bolts obviously being oriented back towards the route. The old hardware still exists on the summit.

Location 

Where the approach trail first encounters the foot of the pinnacle. The route starts at the large corner.

Access by a faint climber's trail that starts on the west-most side (climber's left) of the turn out and immediately goes east (climber's right) across a small rocky wash out. You should be able to pick up the trail again. If you find yourself going directly up a loose rocky gully, you probably turned too soon before finding the path.

Protection 

P1-2: 10-12 60cm alpine draws (to manage rope drag), though quickdraws would likely work.

P3: 2 draws, optional medium cam or tricam placement to protect the final moves to the belay stance.


Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Santiam Pinnacle from road.
BETA PHOTO: Santiam Pinnacle from road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up P2
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up start of P1
BETA PHOTO: Looking up start of P1

Comments on South Face Add Comment
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By Vyache G
Mar 21, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

slippery mossy 1st pitch, fun moves on the 2nd pitch, 3rd pitch has a runout on 5.4 terrain, great view from the top!
By Jessie McQuiston
Jul 15, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Really fun climb on super tacky, highly featured rock. Holds are plentiful!
First two pitches are fun and pretty straight forward. The third pitch is a bit run out toward the top, but by the time you find a place for protection, you're nearly to the summit anchor chains.

If you rappel off the east side, (the natural seeming direction of the chains), you better have a 70M rope, or you'll be hanging 20 feet off the ground and 10 feet from the wall. And be prepared for some swinging around to find ground. A second rappel off a small tree will be required.
Best to rappel north into the notch or back down the route.

To find the climbers trail, find the water drainage pipe, walk downhill and turn right up the hill at two cairns. The trail will switch back a couple times going up to the base of the climb.
By Tom Holschuh
Jul 25, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The loose bolt on the anchor has now been tightened.
By Andrew Child
From: Santa Clara
Aug 9, 2017

This is a fun route and its in a cool location, its a shame that there isn't much else near by.

You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 70 meter rope.

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