REI Community
The Spire
Select Route:
Normal Route T 
North Face Direct T 
South Face T 

South Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Aaron Hobson, Jon Tylka, Marta Reece: June 4, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jun 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Marta Reece on the 1st pitch traverse


A simple and direct route up the Spire's steep southern face. We found this route in order to ascend the Spire after rappelling Razorback. The first pitch is up discontinuous cracks for about 50 ft. Then head right for an airy traverse out (5.7). The traverse can be either a hand-traverse, or balancy foot-ledge, either way being exciting. After the short traverse a large ledge is gained.

The second pitch heads directly up from the back of the ledge, starting with a thin lay-back crack. this layback is the crux 5.8 moves, and it is possible to avoid it by bypassing the large block to the right. Above the layback is another ledge and then a left-leaning crack underneath a large summit block. the rock underneath the summit block is a little crumbly, and there are some large detached rocks to be careful around.


The start of the climb is on the west side of the saddle between Razorback and The Spire. A lone tree about 100 ft down from the saddle marks a ledge. the left side of this ledge is where we started the climb up the discontinuous cracks.


Light rock rack. We brought a set of nuts and Camelots # 1-3. No fixed gear was found (or left) anywhere on the route).

Photos of South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the top of pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Me at the top of pitch 2

Comments on South Face Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About