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The route climbs up thin cracks in a corner for 40' to where the corner opens to a face. Climb a crack in the face to two bolts. From the second bolt hand traverse right 10' on manky rock to a mantel onto a small ledge.(5.7+) Climb the splitter hand crack that slowly widens to the top of the tower. Build an anchor with creativity.
To descend find the anchor at the top of Fort Knox and scramble down to it. (When Matt and I did this I wedged myself in a crack and he rappelled to the anchor off of me)
Standard Desert Rack, Small to mid sized cams with extra 2 and 3 camalots for the final splitter crack. One 4 old camalot for the final moves to the summit. 2 Ropes to rappel Fort Knox.
The belayer that made it all possible.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ R
Good route that deserves more traffic. The manky traverse is scary, loose, and committing. It is certainly no giveaway at 5.7+. A new style 5 camalot is helpful for building an anchor on the summit, and extras in red and yellow alien are nice for the first half of the route. The down climb to the anchors on Fort Knox isn't bad, though falling would be a catastrophe so you should have a belay. You can also rap Fort Knox with one 70 meter rope. Another bolt at the rap anchor would be welcome.
By J. Hickok
Mar 8, 2012
Worth doing! Seemed to me like my partner's lead ascent was maybe 5.10 C1??