Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Bob Kamps, TM Herbert, Don Wilson 1959 FFA: R. Hardwick, S. Baxter, L. Coats, G. Douglass 1977 |
Page Views: | 1,761 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Kole DeCou on Dec 10, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The only route on one of the most prominent features in Sedona. Classic climbing but very runout. The crux is well protected, but there are potential bone-breaking falls on 5.9-ish terrain. Bloom's book says to stick clip the first bolt, but I really can't see how this would help since getting to the first bolt is no big deal and the climbing doesn't get runout until after the crux bulge.
Pitch 1: 5.7 100' from the ledge scramble up a series of ledges towards the big chimney. Belay at the base of the chimney.
Pitch 2: 5.8 100' Up the chimney to a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 3: 5.11- R 150' The business. Belay/spot from the little pinnacle on the ledge. Climb the face to a bulge (crux). After the crux the climb is very runout and sustained 5.9. Unless you get gear in some funky pockets after the corner there is a 100' fall potential from the top of the pitch. Hand-sized tricams or a #2 Camalot might work here. No promises since I didn't have either.
Pitch 1: 5.7 100' from the ledge scramble up a series of ledges towards the big chimney. Belay at the base of the chimney.
Pitch 2: 5.8 100' Up the chimney to a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 3: 5.11- R 150' The business. Belay/spot from the little pinnacle on the ledge. Climb the face to a bulge (crux). After the crux the climb is very runout and sustained 5.9. Unless you get gear in some funky pockets after the corner there is a 100' fall potential from the top of the pitch. Hand-sized tricams or a #2 Camalot might work here. No promises since I didn't have either.
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