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South Face (Via Miriam) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 530'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Angelo and Guiseppe Dimai, Arturo Gaspari. June 29, 1927
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,588
Submitted By: Michael G on Oct 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Merrill Bitter comes around the easy but airy 2nd ...


The crux is the first pitch. The rock is very polished and you must be comfortable with climbing well above gear on the easier sections.


The first pitch begins beneath a crack that runs up through an overhang. Note, there is a much more difficult route to the left that is also a crack that climbs and overhang. I would avoid this.


Some fixed pro. Belays generally have a single bolt cemented into the rock. You can protect the crux.

Photos of South Face (Via Miriam) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up p3 of Via Miriam.
Looking up p3 of Via Miriam.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from top of Via Miriam's tower.
View from top of Via Miriam's tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the third pitch of Via Miriam.
Start of the third pitch of Via Miriam.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Via Miriam.
First pitch of Via Miriam.
Rock Climbing Photo: Via Miriam on the Torre Grande Cima Sud.  Route ma...
BETA PHOTO: Via Miriam on the Torre Grande Cima Sud. Route ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the climb.

Comments on South Face (Via Miriam) Add Comment
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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Some additional description for this route:

The first pitch begins just left of the SE Arete, on the far right side and lowest part of the South Face, in a shallow chimney weakness. The second pitch goes slightly left and up, until its possible to head left under the roof on easy terrain aiming for a wide and very exposed vertical crack/flake. Third pitch climbs up the steep, wide flakey crack to the left side of the roof, and, traverses to the left then up steep weaknesses trending slighly left and belaying beneath a large corner. 4th pitch climbs up the large corner to its top, stepping left to a fixed belay anchor. Either traverse off left here (recommended finish), or, up and right to the top.

Descent: we traversed off left per the recommended finish. Follow the ledge around west to a terrace. North to the saddle. Descend gully (possible rappel) and, staying left, go around the west tower and back around to the start of the route (or, down to the refugio for lunch/dinner and a pitcher of red wine!).
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 21, 2012

Watch out for rope drag on the pitch three as you traverse underneath the big roofs and around several sharp corners.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2013

We went for the summit- loose, runout, easy, and we got down with a single 70 meter rope.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cima Ovest/Torre Grande Descent
Cima Ovest/Torre Grande Descent
By Joie Prothero
Jun 26, 2014

Bring a BD number 2 for the traverse pitch (pitch 3?). The whole route eats gear... I'd do it a hundred times over.
By Emmett Lyman
From: Somerville, MA
Sep 28, 2015

Great climb. First pitch is definitely polished (heck, they all are to some extent!). The roof traverse felt very familiar to a Gunks climber - the jug holds are there just like they should be right under the roof! The following pitch was a little scary, as 2 Austrians rapped down on me and knocked a ton of gravel off. Couple of new dents in the helmet, but fortunately no one got hurt. Just be sure to watch for folks rapping the route and clip the plentiful fixed pro as you go to be safe.
By kemple sr.
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I just did this route, and thought I should weigh in on a couple of crucial points:
Rack: I use plenty of gear, and was ok with a single rack to #3 camalot IF and this is very important, you stop at the first belay at about 20 m. If you run the first 2 together as is often described, you will be 40 feet out with no gear, because it is a blue cam crack the entire second pitch! I did this and it wasn't fun!

Some of the guidebooks send you into a very dangerous situation. After you traverse left on the chossy ledges, you climb up and left on a short overhanging flake. This leads to another big ledge. From here,some of the route descriptions tell you to climb up steep cracks. There is a beautiful steep crack with some fixed pins here. If you climb this it leads to a nasty 30 foot traverse, with the only gear a bent over fixed pin at the start! Both you and your second will be really scared!

Instead, just walk left on the ledge till under a large dihedral. An obvious, easy line goes straight up to the next belay. The new Rock Fax guide shows this clearly.

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